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How to Start Investing.

It is never too soon to start investing. Investing is the smartest way to secure your financial future and to begin letting your money make more money for you. Investing is not just for people who have plenty of spare cash. On the contrary, anyone can (and should) invest. You can get started with just a little bit of money and a lot of know-how. By formulating a plan and familiarizing yourself with the tools available, you can quickly learn how to start investing.

Part 1 Getting Acquainted with Different Investment Vehicles.
1. Make sure you have a safety net. Holding some money in reserve is a good idea because (a) if you lose your investment you'll have something to fall back on, and (b) it will allow you to be a bolder investor, since you won't be worried about risking every penny you own.
Save between three and six months' worth of expenses. Call it your emergency fund, set aside for large, unexpected expenses (job loss, medical expenses, auto accident, etc.). This money should be in cash or some other form that's very conservative and immediately available.
Once you have an emergency fund established, you can start to save for your long-term goals, like buying a home, retirement, and college tuition.
If your employer offers a retirement plan, this is a great vehicle for saving, because it can save on your tax bill, and your employer may contribute money to match some of your own contributions, which amounts to "free" money for you.
If you don't have a retirement plan through your workplace, most employees are allowed to accumulate tax-deferred savings in a traditional IRA or a Roth IRA. If you are self-employed, you have options like a SEP-IRA or a "SIMPLE" IRA. Once you've determined the type of account(s) to set up, you can then choose specific investments to hold within them.
Get current on all your insurance policies. This includes auto, health, homeowner's/renter's, disability, and life insurance. With luck you'll never need insurance, but it's nice to have in the event of disaster.
2. Learn a little bit about stocks. This is what most people think of when they consider "investing." Put simply, a stock is a share in the ownership of a business, a publicly-held company. The stock itself is a claim on what the company owns — its assets and earnings.  When you buy stock in a company, you are making yourself part-owner. If the company does well, the value of the stock will probably go up, and the company may pay you a "dividend," a reward for your investment. If the company does poorly, however, the stock will probably lose value.
The value of stock comes from public perception of its worth. That means the stock price is driven by what people think it's worth, and the price at which a stock is purchased or sold is whatever the market will bear, even if the underlying value (as measured by certain fundamentals) might suggest otherwise.
A stock price goes up when more people want to buy that stock than sell it.  Stock prices go down when more people want to sell than buy. In order to sell stock, you have to find someone willing to buy at the listed price. In order to buy stock, you have to find someone selling their stock at a price you like.
The job of a stockbroker is to pair up buyers and sellers.
"Stocks" can mean a lot of different things. For example, penny stocks are stocks that trade at relatively low prices, sometimes just pennies.
Various stocks are bundled into what's called an index, like the Dow Jones Industrials, which is a list of 30 high-performing stocks. An index is a useful indicator of the performance of the whole market.
3. Familiarize yourself with bonds. Bonds are issuances of debt, similar to an IOU. When you buy a bond, you're essentially lending someone money.  The borrower ("issuer") agrees to pay back the money (the "principal") when the life ("term") of the loan has expired. The issuer also agrees to pay interest on the principal at a stated rate. The interest is the whole point of the investment. The term of the bond can range from months to years, at the end of which period the borrower pays back the principal in full.
Here's an example: You buy a five-year municipal bond for $10,000 with an interest rate of 2.35%. Thus, you lend the municipality $10,000. Each year the municipality pays you interest on your bond in the amount of of 2.35% of $10,000, or $235. After five years the municipality pays back your $10,000. So you've made back your principal plus a profit of $1175 in interest (5 x $235).
Generally the longer the term of the bond, the higher the interest rate. If you're lending your money for a year, you probably won't get a high interest rate, because one year is a relatively short period of risk. If you're going to lend your money and not expect it back for ten years, however, you will be compensated for the higher risk you're taking, and the interest rate will be higher. This illustrates an axiom in investing: The higher the risk, the higher the return.
4. Understand the commodities market. When you invest in something like a stock or a bond, you invest in the business represented by that security. The piece of paper you get is worthless, but what it promises is valuable. A commodity, on the other hand, is something of inherent value, something capable of satisfying a need or desire. Commodities include pork bellies (bacon), coffee beans, oil, natural gas, and potash, among many other items. The commodity itself is valuable, because people want and use it.
People often trade commodities by buying and selling "futures." A future is simply an agreement to buy or sell a commodity at a certain price sometime in the future.
Futures were originally used as a "hedging" technique by farmers. Here's a simple example of how it works: Farmer Joe grows avocados. The price of avocados, however, is typically volatile, meaning that it goes up and down a lot. At the beginning of the season, the wholesale price of avocados is $4 per bushel. If Farmer Joe has a bumper crop of avocados but the price of avocados drops to $2 per bushel in April at harvest, Farmer Joe may lose a lot of money.
Joe, in advance of harvest as insurance against such a loss, sells a futures contract to someone. The contract stipulates that the buyer of the contract agrees to buy all of Joe's avocados at $4 per bushel in April.
Now Joe has protection against a price drop. If the price of avocados goes up, he'll be fine because he can sell his avocados at the market price. If the price of avocados drops to $2, he can sell his avocados at $4 to the buyer of the contract and make more than other farmers who don't have a similar contract.
The buyer of a futures contract always hopes that the price of a commodity will go up beyond the futures price he paid. That way he can lock in a lower-than-market price. The seller hopes that the price of a commodity will go down. He can buy the commodity at low (market) prices and then sell it to the buyer at a higher-than-market price.
5. Know a bit about investing in property. Investing in real estate can be a risky but lucrative proposition. There are lots of ways you can invest in property. You can buy a house and become a landlord. You pocket the difference between what you pay on the mortgage and what the tenant pays you in rent. You can also flip homes. That means you buy a home in need of renovations, fix it up, and sell it as quickly as possible. Real estate can be a profitable vehicle for some, but it is not without substantial risk involving property maintenance and market value.
Other ways of gaining exposure to real estate include collateralized mortgage obligations (CMOs) and collateralized debt obligations (CDOs), which are mortgages that have been bundled into securitized instruments. These, however, are tools for sophisticated investors: their transparency and quality can vary greatly, as revealed during the 2008 downturn.
Some people think that home values are guaranteed to go up. History has shown otherwise: real estate values in most areas show very modest rates of return after accounting for costs such as maintenance, taxes and insurance. As with many investments, real estate values do invariably rise if given enough time. If your time horizon is short, however, property ownership is not a guaranteed money-maker.
Property acquisition and disposal can be a lengthy and unpredictable process and should be viewed as a long-term, higher-risk proposition. It is not the type of investment that is appropriate if your time horizon is short and is certainly not a guaranteed investment.
6. Learn about mutual funds and exchange-traded funds (ETFs). Mutual funds and ETFs are similar investment vehicles in that each is a collection of many stocks and/or bonds (hundreds or thousands in some cases). Holding an individual security is a concentrated way of investing – the potential for gain or loss is tied to a single company – whereas holding a fund is a way to spread the risk across many companies, sectors or regions. Doing so can dampen the upside potential but also serves to protect against the downside risk.
Commodities exposure is usually achieved by holding futures contracts or a fund of futures contracts. Real estate can be held directly (by owning a home or investment property) or in a real estate investment trust (REIT) or REIT fund, which holds interests in a number of residential or commercial properties.

Part 2 Mastering Investment Basics.
1. Buy undervalued assets ("buy low, sell high"). If you're talking about stocks and other assets, you want to buy when the price is low and sell when the price is high. If you buy 100 shares of stock on January 1st for $5 per share, and you sell those same shares on December 31st for $7.25, you just made $225. That may seem a paltry sum, but when you're talking about buying and selling hundreds or even thousands of shares, it can really add up.
How do you tell if a stock is undervalued? You need to look at a company closely — its earnings growth, profit margins, its P/E ratio, and its dividend yield — instead of looking at just one aspect and making a decision based on a single ratio or a momentary drop in the stock's price.
The price-to-earnings ratio is a common way of determining if a stock is undervalued. It simply divides a company's share price by its earnings. For example, if Company X is trading at $5 per share, with earnings of $1 per share, its price-to-earnings ratio is 5. That is to say, the company is trading at five times its earnings. The lower this figure, the more undervalued the company may be. Typical P/E ratios range between 15 and 20, although ratios outside that range are not uncommon. Use P/E ratios as only one of many indications of a stock's worth.
Always compare a company to its peers. For example, assume you want to buy Company X. You can look at Company X's projected earnings growth, profit margins, and price-to-earnings ratio. You would then compare these figures to those of Company X's closest competitors. If Company X has better profit margins, better projected earnings, and a lower price-to-earnings ratio, it may be a better buy.
Ask yourself some basic Question : s: What will the market be for this stock in the future? Will it look bleaker or better? What competitors does this company have, and what are their prospects? How will this company be able to earn money in the future? These should help you come to a better understanding of whether a company's stock is under- or over-valued.
2. Invest in companies that you understand. Perhaps you have some basic knowledge regarding some business or industry. Why not put that to use? Invest in companies or industries that you know, because you're more likely to understand revenue models and prospects for future success. Of course, never put all your eggs in one basket: investing in only one -- or a very few -- companies can be quite risky. However, wringing value out of a single industry (whose workings you understand) will increase your chances of being successful.
For example, you may hear plenty of positive news on a new technology stock. It is important to stay away until you understand the industry and how it works. The principle of investing in companies you understand was popularized by renowned investor Warren Buffett, who made billions of dollars sticking only with business models he understood and avoiding ones he did not.
3. Avoid buying on hope and selling on fear. It's very easy and too tempting to follow the crowd when investing. We often get caught up in what other people are doing and take it for granted that they know what they're talking about. Then we buy stocks just because other people buy them or sell them when other people do. Doing this is easy. Unfortunately, it's a good way to lose money. Invest in companies that you know and believe in — and tune out the hype — and you'll be fine.
When you buy a stock that everyone else has bought, you're buying something that's probably worth less than its price (which has probably risen in response to the recent demand). When the market corrects itself (drops), you could end up buying high and then selling low, just the opposite of what you want to do. Hoping that a stock will go up just because everyone else thinks it will is foolish.
When you sell a stock that everyone else is selling, you're selling something that may be worth more than its price (which likely has dropped because of all the selling). When the market corrects itself (rises), you've sold low and will have to buy high if you decide you want the stock back.
Fear of losses can prove to be a poor reason to dump a stock.
If you sell based on fear, you may protect yourself from further declines, but you may also miss out on a rebound. Just as you did not anticipate the decline, you will not be able to predict the rebound. Stocks have historically risen over long time frames, which is why holding on to them and not over-reacting to short-term swings is important.
4. Know the effect of interest rates on bonds. Bond prices and interest rates have an inverse relationship. When interest rates go up, bond prices go down. When interest rates go down, bond prices go up. Here's why:
Interest rates on bonds normally reflect the prevailing market interest rate. Say you buy a bond with an interest rate of 3%. If interest rates on other investments then go up to 4% and you're stuck with a bond paying 3%, not many people would be willing to buy your bond from you when they can buy another bond that pays them 4% interest. For this reason, you would have to lower the price of your bond in order to sell it. The opposite situation applies when bond market rates are falling.
5. Diversify. Diversifying your portfolio is one of the most important things that you can do, because it diminishes your risk. Think of it this way: If you were to invest $5 in each of 20 different companies, all of the companies would have to go out of business before you would lose all your money. If you invested the same $100 in just one company, only that company would have to fail for all your money to disappear. Thus, diversified investments "hedge" against each other and keep you from losing lots of money because of the poor performance of a few companies.
Diversify your portfolio not only with a good mix of stocks and bonds, but go further by buying shares in companies of different sizes in different industries and in different countries. Often when one class of investment performs poorly, another class performs nicely. It is very rare to see all asset classes declining at the same time.
Many believe a balanced or "moderate" portfolio is one made up of 60% stocks and 40% bonds. Thus, a more aggressive portfolio might have 80% stocks and 20% bonds, and a more conservative portfolio might have 70% bonds and 30% stocks. Some advisors will tell you that your portfolio's percentage of bonds should roughly match your age.
6. Invest for the long run.  Choosing good-quality investments can take time and effort. Not everyone can do the research and keep up with the dynamics of all the companies being considered. Many people instead employ a "buy and hold" approach of weathering the storms rather than attempting to predict and avoid market downturns. This approach works for most in the long term but requires patience and discipline. There are some, however, who choose to try their hand at being a day-trader, which involves holding stocks for a very short time (hours, even minutes). Doing so, however, does not often lead to success over the long term for the following reasons:
Brokerage fees add up. Every time you buy or sell a stock, a middleman known as a broker takes a cut for connecting you with another trader. These fees can really add up if you're making a lot of trades every day, cutting into your profit and magnifying your losses.
Many try to predict what the market will do and some will get lucky on occasion by making some good calls (and will claim it wasn't luck), but research shows that this tactic does not typically succeed over the long term.
The stock market rises over the long term. From 1871 to 2014, the S&P 500's compound annual growth rate was 9.77%, a rate of return many investors would find attractive. The challenge is to stay invested long-term while weathering the ups and downs in order to achieve this average: the standard deviation for this period was 19.60%, which means some years saw returns as high as 29.37% while other years experienced losses as large as 9.83%.  Set your sights on the long term, not the short. If you're worried about all the dips along the way, find a graphical representation of the stock market over the years and hang it somewhere you can see whenever the market is undergoing its inevitable–and temporary–declines.
7. Consider whether or not to short sell. This can be a "hedging" strategy, but it can also amplify your risk, so it's really suitable only for experienced investors. The basic concept is as follows: Instead of betting that the price of a security is going to increase, "shorting" is a bet that the price will drop. When you short a stock (or bond or currency), your broker actually lends you shares without your having to pay for them. Then you hope the stock's price goes down. If it does, you "cover," meaning you buy the actual shares at the current (lower) price and give them to the broker. The difference between the amount credited to you in the beginning and the amount you pay at the end is your profit.
Short selling can be dangerous, however, because it's not easy to predict a drop in price. If you use shorting for the purpose of speculation, be prepared to get burned sometimes. If the stock's price were to go up instead of down, you would be forced to buy the stock at a higher price than what was credited to you initially. If, on the other hand, you use shorting as a way to hedge your losses, it can actually be a good form of insurance.
This is an advanced investment strategy, and you should generally avoid it unless you are an experienced investor with extensive knowledge of markets. Remember that while a stock can only drop to zero, it can rise indefinitely, meaning that you could lose enormous sums of money through short-selling.

Part 3 Starting Out.
1. Choose where to open your account. There are different options available: you can go to a brokerage firm (sometimes also called a wirehouse or custodian) such as Fidelity, Charles Schwab or TD Ameritrade. You can open an account on the website of one of these institutions, or visit a local branch and choose to direct the investments on your own or pay to work with a staff advisor. You can also go directly to a fund company such as Vanguard, Fidelity, or T. Rowe Price and let them be your broker. They will offer you their own funds, of course, but many fund companies (such as the three just named) offer platforms on which you can buy the funds of other companies, too. See below for additional options in finding an advisor.
Always be mindful of fees and minimum-investment rules before opening an account. Brokers all charge fees per trade (ranging from $4.95 to $10 generally), and many require a minimum initial investment (ranging from $500 to much higher).
Online brokers with no minimum initial-investment requirement include Capital One Investing, TD Ameritrade, First Trade, TradeKing, and OptionsHouse.
If you want more help with your investing, there is a variety of ways to find financial advice: if you want someone who helps you in a non-sales environment, you can find an advisor in your area at one of the following sites: letsmakeaplan.org, www.napfa.org, and garrettplanningnetwork.com. You can also go to your local bank or financial institution. Many of these charge higher fees, however, and may require a large opening investment.
Some advisors (like Certified Financial Planners™) have the ability to give advice in a number of areas such as investments, taxes and retirement planning, while others can only act on a client's instructions but not give advice, It's also important to know that not all people who work at financial institutions are bound to the "fiduciary" duty of putting a client's interests first. Before starting to work with someone, ask about their training and expertise to make sure they are the right fit for you.
2. Invest in a Roth IRA as soon in your working career as possible. If you're earning taxable income and you're at least 18, you can establish a Roth IRA. This is a retirement account to which you can contribute up to an IRS-determined maximum each year (the latest limit is the lesser of $5,500 or the amount earned plus an additional $1,000 "catch up" contribution for those age 50 or older). This money gets invested and begins to grow. A Roth IRA can be a very effective way to save for retirement.
You don't get a tax deduction on the amount you contribute to a Roth, as you would if you contributed to a traditional IRA. However, any growth on top of the contribution is tax-free and can be withdrawn without penalty after you turn age 59½ (or earlier if you meet one of the exceptions to the age 59½ rule).
Investing as soon as possible in a Roth IRA is important. The earlier you begin investing, the more time your investment has to grow. If you invest just $20,000 in a Roth IRA before you're 30 years old and then stop adding any more money to it, by the time you're 72 you'll have a $1,280,000 investment (assuming a 10% rate of return). This example is merely illustrative. Don't stop investing at 30. Keep adding to your account. You will have a very comfortable retirement if you do.
How can a Roth IRA grow like this? By compound interest. The return on your investment, as well as reinvested interest, dividends and capital gains, are added to your original investment such that any given rate of return will produce a larger profit through accelerated growth. If you are earning an average compound annual rate of return of 7.2%, your money will double in ten years. (This is known as "the rule of 72.")
You can open a Roth IRA through most online brokers as well as through most banks. If you are using a self-directed online broker, you will simply select a Roth IRA as the type of account while you are registering.
3. Invest in your company's 401(k). A 401(k) is a retirement-savings vehicle into which an employee can direct portions of his or her paychecks and receive a tax deduction in the year of the contributions. Many employers will match a portion of these contributions, so the employee should contribute at least enough to trigger the employer match.
4. Consider investing mainly in stocks but also in bonds to diversify your portfolio. From 1925 to 2011, stocks outperformed bonds in every rolling 25-year period. While this may sound appealing from a return standpoint, it entails volatility, which can be worrisome. Add less-volatile bonds to your portfolio for the sake of stability and diversification. The older you get, the more appropriate it becomes to own bonds (a more conservative investment). Re-read the above discussion of diversification.
5. Start off investing a little money in mutual funds. An index fund is a mutual fund that invests in a specific list of companies of a particular size or economic sector. Such a fund performs similarly to its index, such as the S&P 500 index or the Barclays Aggregate Bond index.
Mutual funds come in different shapes and sizes. Some are actively managed, meaning there is a team of analysts and other experts employed by the fund company to research and understand a particular geographical region or economic sector. Because of this professional management, such funds generally cost more than index funds, which simply mimic an index and don't need much management. They can be bond-heavy, stock-heavy, or invest in stocks and bonds equally. They can buy and sell their securities actively, or they can be more passively managed (as in the case of index funds).
Mutual funds come with fees. There may be charges (or "loads") when you buy or sell shares of the fund. The fund's "expense ratio" is expressed as a percentage of total assets and pays for overhead and management expenses. Some funds charge a lower-percentage fee for larger investments. Expense ratios generally range from as low as 0.15% (or 15 basis points, abbreviated "BPS") for index funds to as high as 2% (200 BPS) for actively managed funds. There may also be a "12b-1" fee charged to offset a fund's marketing expenses.
The U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission states that no evidence exists that higher-fee mutual funds produce better returns than do lower-fee funds. In other words, deal with lower-fee funds.
Mutual funds can be purchased through nearly any brokerage service. Even better is to purchase directly from a mutual fund company. This avoids brokerage fees. Call or write the fund company or visit their website. Opening a fund account is simple and easy. See Invest in Mutual Funds.
6. Consider exchange-traded funds in addition to or instead of mutual funds. Exchange-traded funds (ETFs) are very similar to mutual funds in that they pool people's money and buy many investments. There are a few key differences.
ETFs can be traded on an exchange throughout the business day just like stocks, whereas mutual funds are bought and sold only at the end of each trading day.
ETFs are typically index funds and do not generate as much in the way of taxable capital gains to pass on to investors as compared with actively managed funds. ETFs and mutual funds are becoming less distinct from each other, and investors need not own both types of investment. If you like the idea of buying and selling fund shares during (rather than at the end of) the trading day, ETFs are a good choice for you.

Part 4 Making the Most of Your Money.
1. Consider using the services of a financial planner or advisor. Many planners and advisors require that their clients have an investment portfolio of at least a minimum value, sometimes $100,000 or more. This means it could be hard to find an advisor willing to work with you if your portfolio isn't well established. In that case, look for an advisor interested in helping smaller investors.
How do financial planners help? Planners are professionals whose job is to invest your money for you, ensure that your money is safe, and guide you in your financial decisions. They draw from a wealth of experience at allocating resources. Most importantly, they have a financial stake in your success: the more money you make under their tutelage, the more money they make.
2. Buck the herd instinct. The herd instinct, alluded to earlier, is the idea that just because a lot of other people are doing something, you should, too.  Many successful investors have made moves that the majority thought were unwise at the time.
That doesn't mean, however, that you should never seek investment advice from other people. Just be wise about choosing the people you listen to. Friends or family members with a successful background in investing can offer worthwhile advice, as can professional advisors who charge a flat fee (rather than a commission) for their help.
Invest in smart opportunities when other people are scared. In 2008 as the housing crisis hit, the stock market shed thousands of points in a matter of months. A smart investor who bought stocks as the market bottomed out enjoyed a strong return when stocks rebounded.
This reminds us to buy low and sell high. It takes courage to buy investments when they are becoming cheaper (in a falling market) and sell those investments when they are looking better and better (a rising market). It seems counter-intuitive, but it's how the world's most successful investors made their money.
3. Know the players in the game.  Which institutional investors think that your stock is going to drop in price and have therefore shorted it? What mutual fund managers have your stock in their fund, and what is their track record? While it helps to be independent as an investor, it's also helpful to know what respected professionals are doing.
There are websites which compile recent opinions on a stock from analysts and expert investors. For example, if you are considering a purchase of Tesla shares, you can search Tesla on Stockchase. It will give you all the recent expert opinions on the stock.
4. Re-examine your investment goals and strategies every so often. Your life and conditions in the market change all the time, so your investment strategy should change with them. Never be so committed to a stock or bond that you can't see it for what it's worth.
While money and prestige may be important, never lose track of the truly important, non-material things in life: your family, friends, health, and happiness.
For example, if you are very young and saving for retirement, it may be appropriate to have most of your portfolio invested in stocks or stock funds. This is because you would have a longer time horizon in which to recover from any big market crashes or declines, and you would be able to benefit from the long-term trend of markets moving higher.
If you are just about to retire, however, having much less of your portfolio in stocks, and a large portion in bonds and/or cash equivalents is wise. This is because you will need the money in the short-term, and as a result you do not want to risk losing the money in a stock market crash right before you need it.

Community Q&A
Question : I have low money, how I can get rich?
Answer : Expect it to take many years to get rich. Follow any or all of the steps outlined above.
Question : How do I find a broker to invest in the stock market?
Answer : There are several discount brokers online who charge a small fee for buying stock for you. There are also stockbrokers in most cities you can deal with in person. They charge a bit more, but they can offer you more personal service and help you choose stocks if you'd like.
Question : What if I have a stock in mind, but don't want a broker/brokerage firm? How do I actually purchase stock from that particular company, immediately?
Answer : Look online for the company's investor-relations department phone number. Call and ask if they offer direct stock purchases. If so, they will give you instructions for purchasing their stock. They may take a credit card, or you can write them a check.
Question : How do I start investing? Do I need an agent? Can Canadians invest in US Stocks?
Answer : Canadians -- and anyone else -- may invest in U.S. stocks. The typical way it's done is through a stockbroker. A good way to start investing is to consult with an experienced, fee-based financial advisor. A fee-based advisor does not make money by convincing you to make a particular investment.
Question : What is the difference between "ex-dividend date" and "record date"?
Answer : A "record date" is the date a dividend distribution is declared, the date at the close of which one must be the shareholder in order to receive the declared dividend. An "ex-dividend date" is typically two business days before the record date. When shares of a stock are sold near the record date of a dividend declaration, the ex-dividend date is the last day on which the seller is clearly entitled to the dividend payment.
Question : Is a financial planner really necesary?
Answer : Not if you can supply your own financial acumen and practical level-headedness. If you are not clueless about finances, or if you're personally acquainted with someone with considerable financial experience to share with you, there's no need to pay for advice. Having said that, however, the more money you want to place at risk, the more a fee-only advisor is worth hiring.
Question : How do I initiate an investment process after I open the account?
Answer : Your broker can explain the process to you. It's just a matter of telling the broker which investment(s) you want to buy. A full-service broker will help you make that decision if you'd like.
Question : I want to buy Exxon stocks right now online. What's the best way?
Answer : See Part 3 of Buy Stocks.
Question : If my company is closing, can I withdraw the 401k without any penalty?
Answer : Your 401k is probably "portable," meaning you can take it with you without penalty if you switch jobs. In your case, you shouldn't have any trouble removing the funds (assuming you plan to deposit them in another similar plan).
Question : Is it OK to connect my stock market account with my savings account?
Answer : Yes, that's a safe place to keep your money while you're not using it to buy stock.

Tips.
One of the most painless and efficient ways to invest is to dedicate a portion of each paycheck to regular contributions to an investment account. Doing so can provide some great advantages:
Dollar-cost averaging: by saving a steady amount every payday, you purchase more shares of an investment when the share price is lower and fewer shares when the price is higher. That keeps the average share price you pay relatively low.
A disciplined savings plan: having a portion withheld from your paycheck is a way of putting money away before you have a chance to spend it and can translate into a consistent habit of saving.
The "miracle" of compound interest: earning interest on previously earned interest is what Albert Einstein called "the eighth wonder of the world." Compounding is guaranteed to make your retirement years easier if you let it work its magic by leaving your money invested and untouched for as long as possible. Many years of compounding can bring astonishingly good results.

Warnings.

If you intend to hire a financial advisor, make sure s/he is a "fiduciary." That's a person who is legally bound to propose investments for you that will benefit you. An advisor who is not a fiduciary may propose investments that will mainly benefit the advisor (not you).
When looking for an advisor, choose one who charges you a flat fee for advice, not one who is paid a commission by the vendor of an investment product. A fee-based advisor will retain you as a happy client only if his/her advice works out well for you. A commission-based advisor's success is based on selling you a product, regardless of how well that product performs for you.
June 04, 2020

How to Get Immediate Cash for Your Annuity.


An annuity is a type of investment that is usually handled by an insurance company. An investor will invest her money in an annuity fund in exchange for periodic payouts over a predetermined interval (such as for the next ten years) or indefinitely (for the rest of your life). Some annuities provide the option of getting immediate payment. However, if you are in a financial emergency and require immediate cash, you might have to cash out an annuity early. While there may be hefty fees involved, particularly if your annuity is held within a retirement account like an IRA or 401k, it is possible to get immediate cash from your annuity investment.

Method 1 Getting Cash from an Immediate Annuity.
1. Consider carefully whether you need immediate cash. Investments work best when they are allowed to grow over the long term. Withdrawing cash early from an annuity brings with it a risk of fees and will significantly harm the long-term potential of your investment. Consider very carefully whether you are in a true financial emergency before taking steps to sell an annuity, and be sure to use early withdrawal options only as a last resort.
2. Think about other options for immediate cash. Because of the potential penalties of getting cash from an annuity, consider other options for getting cash during a financial emergency. Many of these options come with lower risks and few to no financial penalties. These include:
Take out a short-term, unsecured loan (a loan without collateral) from your bank or a local credit union.
Renting out a room via AirBNB or another website.
Sell unwanted items online.
Take on an additional part-time job or side gig, such as babysitting, dogsitting, or working retail.
Get a Home Equity Loan. These loans will require interest payments, but they might be lower than the penalties you would pay for cashing in an annuity.
3. Determine exactly how much money you need. In some cases, you might be able to receive small, immediate cash payouts from your annuity without too many penalties and fees. However, if you need to cash in your entire annuity, you will likely pay some hefty fines. Therefore, it is important that you know exactly how much cash you need to get through your financial emergency. By only taking out the money you absolutely need, you might be able to be more financially stable in the long run.
4. Determine whether you have an immediate or deferred annuity. An immediate annuity will provide monthly, quarterly, or annual cash payments to the investor immediately after the investment is purchased. A deferred annuity, however, allows the investment to grow for a period of some years before the payouts begin.
If you have an immediate annuity already, you can simply collect your cash installments at the appropriate intervals. Depending on how much cash you require, these installments might be sufficient for your needs.
When payments are made, annuities are taxed on the earning portion of the asset, not a return of principal.
Additionally, an immediate annuity within a retirement account, like a Roth IRA, can provide penalty-free payments to persons under 59.5 years of age.
5. Convert a deferred annuity to an immediate annuity. This option is one that many investors consider as they transition into retirement. They use the deferred annuity to grow their money over the long-term and then convert into an immediate annuity to guarantee an income stream during their retirement. If you convert your deferred annuity to an immediate annuity, you might have the best of both worlds: immediate access to some cash while still allowing your investment portfolio to grow.
Depending on when you purchased your deferred annuity, however, it might be costly for you to pursue the conversion option. Make sure you discuss fees and penalties carefully with your insurance company and your financial advisor before undertaking a conversion.
6. Collect your cash payments without penalty. If you have an immediate annuity, you will receive several small payments each year. This option is a good one for those who are in immediate need of cash (such as those who are on a fixed income). And as long as you only collect the amount specified in your contract, you can do so without paying extra fees.
You will still likely have to pay income tax on a portion or all of the amount you collect.
While immediate annuities provide an immediate cash flow, they generally pay out less total money than deferred annuities, which have more of an opportunity to grow.
7. Determine your surrender period. A surrender period is the period of time after the initial purchase of the annuity where you will be charged hefty fees for cashing out your plan. A surrender period can be anywhere from 5-10 years after purchase, depending on your contract, though it is usually between 6-8 years.
If your surrender period has passed, you might be able to cash out your annuity without paying too many fees.
If your surrender period has not yet passed, you might want to consider the expenses involved before continuing the early withdrawal process.
8. Decide to sell your immediate annuity. Unlike deferred annuities, most immediate annuities do not provide an option for small-sum early withdrawals or partial sales. You will likely have the opportunity, however, to sell the entire immediate annuity for a lump-sum. Again, reserve this option as a last resort given the hassle and fees involved in cashing out your immediate annuity early.
9. Be aware of possible financial penalties. Withdrawing cash from your annuity early can lead to hefty penalties, taxes, and fines. Be sure that you take these penalties into account before making your decision to withdraw your cash.
If your annuity is part of a retirement account and you withdraw your money before you are 59.5 years old, you will have to pay a 10% early withdrawal fee to the federal government.
If you withdraw your money within the first 5-8 years of purchase, you will likely have to pay a "surrender fee" to your insurance company. The exact fee amount depends on your contract. Many surrender fees begin at about a 7% penalty for the first year after purchase and decrease over time from there. However, some companies might charge a fee as high as 20%.
Cash you receive from annuities counts as income. You will likely have to pay income taxes in addition to the early withdrawal fees and surrender fees. The one exception is that payments from an annuity as part of a Roth IRA are not taxable.
10. Research companies that offer cash in exchange for annuity payments. None will give you the full value of your future payments. They might offer anywhere from 60% to 85% of the value of your annuity. Getting 85% of your annuity’s value would be considered a fairly good offer. Since you are legally transferring your rights, you want a company that follows standard procedures and will prepare you for any required court proceedings.
Understand that you are not getting a good deal here because the company you are selling to has to make a profit. Annuity sale prices are reached by discounting a series of future cash flows by some interest rate. Typically, a buyer will use a lower rate than is earned in the annuity to make a profit themselves. This results in a lower sale price for you.
11. Consult your tax attorney or financial advisor. Before agreeing to sell your annuity to a third party, consult a trusted legal or financial expert. They will help you determine your financial liability and help you navigate through the complicated contracts you might have to sign. This will help to ensure that you understand what is happening and that it is done correctly. They might also be able to help guide you to the most reputable companies that purchase annuities.
12. Collect your documents. Documents required for the sale of an annuity include two forms of identification, your initial annuity policy, and an application to sell your annuity to a third party. You might have to contact your insurance company in order to receive correct, up-to-date copies of your paperwork.
13. Complete the transaction. Upon submitting your paperwork and paying your fees and penalties, you will be able to receive your cash payout. Make sure that you report this income correctly during tax time and that you pay all the extra taxes on this money to avoid future penalties.
You might want to consider discussing your finances with a financial advisor to ensure that you will use and invest the cash payout properly.

Method 2 Getting Cash from a Deferred Annuity.
1. Determine what kind of annuity you hold. There are three kinds of annuity, each one of which pays out money slightly differently. The U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) regulates all variable annuities and some index annuities. The SEC does not regulate fixed annuities.
A fixed annuity pays out a predetermined amount at specific intervals over a period of time. This amount is usually based on a specific interest rate applied to your initial investment.
An indexed annuity provides payment to the investor based on the performance of a stock market index fund (or, a fund that tracks the entire stock market performance). Most indexed annuities, however, have a set minimum for payments even if the index fund performs poorly.
A variable annuity allows the investor to choose amongst various investment vehicles, usually mutual funds. Your periodic payment will depend upon the performance of these investments.
2. Determine the type of account your annuity is held in. In addition to the different types of annuity payments, annuities can be held in various types of accounts for certain purposes. These typically include investment and retirement accounts. Both types operate generally the same way, however, they may differ in early withdrawal and tax penalties charged. Check your investment documents or retirement plan agreement to see what type of penalties and restrictions there are on your annuity.
3. Consider penalty-free early withdrawal options. Some deferred annuity policies provide an option for small cash withdrawals without extra penalties. For example, a withdrawal of 5-10% of your initial investment might be accomplished without paying a "surrender fee" to your insurance company. While taking an early withdrawal will diminish your investment's ability to grow, you might be able to get the cash you need without completely emptying your annuity.
If your annuity is part of a retirement account and you are under 59.5 years old, you might still have to pay a 10% tax to the federal government, even if you don't have to pay a penalty to your insurance company.
4. Determine your surrender period. A surrender period is the period of time after the initial purchase of the annuity where you will be charged hefty fees for cashing out your plan. A surrender period can be anywhere from 5-10 years after purchase, depending on your contract, though it is usually between 6-8 years.
If your surrender period has passed, you might be able to cash out your annuity without paying too many fees.
If your surrender period has not yet passed, you might want to consider the expenses involved before continuing the early withdrawal process.
5. Reread your annuity contract. Review the details of your annuity contract. Pay attention to the full-disclosure clause of your agreement. It’s important that you understand what portion of your annuity payments you are exchanging for a lump-sum cash payment.
6. Understand the process. If you are seeking a lump sum of cash in lieu of structured payments, you are in effect signing over to someone else all your rights to receive future annuity payments. That "someone else" is the entity giving you the lump-sum cash.
Be aware that in the long term your annuity is worth much more if you receive structured payments according to the original contract. Talk to your insurance agent to determine the exact worth of your annuity. You may decide to ride out your immediate cash-flow crisis instead of cashing in.
7. Be aware of possible financial penalties. Withdrawing cash from your annuity early can lead to hefty penalties, taxes, and fines. Be sure that you take these penalties into account before making your decision to withdraw your cash.
If your annuity is part of a retirement account and you withdraw your money before you are 59.5 years old, you will have to pay a 10% early withdrawal fee to the federal government.
If you withdraw your money within the first 5-8 years of purchase, you will likely have to pay a "surrender fee" to your insurance company. The exact fee amount depends on your contract. Many surrender fees begin at about a 7% penalty for the first year after purchase and decrease over time from there. However, some companies might charge a fee as high as 20%.
8. Research companies that offer cash in exchange for annuity payments. None will give you the full value of your future payments. They might offer anywhere from 60% to 85% of the value of your annuity. Getting 85% of your annuity’s value would be considered a fairly good offer. Since you are legally transferring your rights, you want a company that follows standard procedures and will prepare you for any required court proceedings.
9. Consult your tax attorney or financial advisor. Before agreeing to sell your annuity to a third party, consult a trusted legal or financial expert. They will help you determine your financial liability and help you navigate through the complicated contracts you might have to sign. This will help to ensure that you understand what is happening and that it is done correctly. They might also be able to help guide you to the most reputable companies that purchase annuities.
10. Collect your documents. Documents required for the sale of an annuity include two forms of identification, your initial annuity policy, and an application to sell your annuity to a third party. You might have to contact your insurance company in order to receive correct, up-to-date copies of your paperwork.
11. Complete the transaction. Upon submitting your paperwork and paying your fees and penalties, you will be able to receive your cash payout. Make sure that you report this income correctly during tax time and that you pay all the extra taxes on this money to avoid future penalties.
You might want to consider discussing your finances with a financial advisor to ensure that you will use and invest the cash payout properly.

Community Q&A.
Question : How can I get money from a union annuity?
Answer : Start by contacting your union steward.
Question : Can I cash out a fixed annuity early?
Answer : What you'll typically lose by cashing out early is a 10% penalty on the taxable portion of your annuity, forfeited to the IRS if you're under age 59½. That's in addition to the 10% federal tax penalty you'll pay on earnings if you're under age 59½.

Tips.

If you aren’t comfortable with the idea of cashing in part or all of your annuity, explore other ways you can raise cash, such as taking out a second mortgage or selling other assets. Downsizing is another way to cover a tight financial spot in your life.
Use the formulas in Discount Cash Flow to find the value of your annuity. You won't be able to sell it for full value, but you need to know what the contract is worth so that you'll know if you're getting a fair offer.

Warnings.
Consult your tax attorney or accountant before selling. If you sell too early, you may be liable for a hefty surrender charge, and if you sell before you have reached the age of 59-and-a-half, you will probably be faced with federal taxes and penalties.
Thoroughly research any company offering to purchase your annuity. You can research any formal complaints filed against a company by contacting the Better Business Bureau.[21] It’s a good idea to ask your tax accountant for recommendations as well.
Do not purchase an annuity unless you have a decent emergency savings account that you can access easily and without penalty. An annuity is not a suitable emergency fund because of the fees, delays, and hassles in receiving quick cash.
To avoid fraud, make sure you purchase an annuity from a reputable, licensed company.
May 04, 2020


How to Calculate Compound Interest.

Compound interest is distinct from simple interest in that interest is earned both on the original investment (the principal) and the interest accumulated so far, rather than simply on the principal. Because of this, accounts with compound interest grow faster than those with simple interest. Additionally, the value will grow even faster if the interest is compounded multiple times per year. Compound interest is offered on a variety of investment products and also charged on certain types of loans, like credit card debt. Calculating how much an amount will grow under compound interest is simple with the right equations.

Part 1 Finding Annual Compound Interest.
1. Define annual compounding. The interest rate stated on your investment prospectus or loan agreement is an annual rate. If your car loan, for example, is a 6% loan, you pay 6% interest each year. Compounding once at the end of the year is the easiest calculation for compounding interest.
A debt may compound interest annually, monthly or even daily.
The more frequently your debt compounds, the faster you will accumulate interest.
You can look at compound interest from the investor or the debtor’s point of view. Frequent compounding means that the investor’s interest earnings will increase at a faster rate. It also means that the debtor will owe more interest while the debt is outstanding.
For example, a savings account may be compounded annually, while a pay-day loan can be compounded monthly or even weekly.
2. Calculate interest compounding annually for year one. Assume that you own a $1,000, 6% savings bond issued by the US Treasury. Treasury savings bonds pay out interest each year based on their interest rate and current value.
Interest paid in year 1 would be $60 ($1,000 multiplied by 6% = $60).
To calculate interest for year 2, you need to add the original principal amount to all interest earned to date. In this case, the principal for year 2 would be ($1,000 + $60 = $1,060). The value of the bond is now $1,060 and the interest payment will be calculated from this value.
3. Compute interest compounding for later years. To see the bigger impact of compound interest, compute interest for later years. As you move from year to year, the principal amount continues to grow.
Multiply the year 2 principal amount by the bond’s interest rate. ($1,060 X 6% = $63.60). The interest earned is higher by $3.60 ($63.60 - $60.00). That’s because the principal amount increased from $1,000 to $1,060.
For year 3, the principal amount is ($1,060 + $63.60 = $1,123.60). The interest earned in year 3 is $67.42. That amount is added to the principal balance for the year 4 calculation.
The longer a debt is outstanding, the bigger the impact of compounding interest. Outstanding means that the debt is still owed by the debtor.
Without compounding, the year 2 interest would simply be ($1,000 X 6% = $60). In fact, every year’s interest earned would be $60 if you did earn compound interest. This is known as simple interest.
4. Create an excel document to compute compound interest. It can be handy to visualize compound interest by creating a simple model in excel that shows the growth of your investment. Start by opening a document and labeling the top cell in columns A, B, and C "Year," "Value," and "Interest Earned," respectively.
Enter the years (0-5) in cells A2 to A7.
Enter your principal in cell B2. For example, imagine you are started with $1,000. Input 1000.
In cell B3, type "=B2*1.06" and press enter. This means that your interest is being compounded annually at 6% (0.06). Click on the lower right corner of cell B3 and drag the formula down to cell B7. The numbers will fill in appropriately.
Place a 0 in cell C2. In cell C3, type "=B3-B$2" and press enter. This should give you the difference between the values in cell B3 and B2, which represents the interest earned. Click on the lower right corner of cell C3 and drag the formula down to cell C7. The values will fill themselves in.
Continue this process to replicate the process for as many years as you want to track. You can also easily change values for principal and interest rate by altering the formulas used and cell contents.

Part 2 Calculating Compound Interest on Investments.
1. Learn the compound interest formula. The compound interest formula solves for the future value of the investment after set number of years. The formula itself is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}} The variables within the equation are defined as follows:
"FV" is the future value. This is the result of the calculation.
"P" is your principal.
"i" represents the annual interest rate.
"c" represents the compounding frequency (how many times the interest compounds each year).
"n" represents the number of years being measured.
2. Gather variables the compound interest formula. If interest compounds more often than annually, it is difficult to calculate the formula manually. You can use a compound interest formula for any calculation. To use the formula, you need to gather the following information.
Identify the principal of the investment. This is the original amount of your investment. This could be how much you deposited into the account or the original cost of the bond. For example, imagine your principal in an investment account is $5,000.
Locate the interest rate for the debt. The interest rate should be an annual amount, stated as a percentage of the principal. For example, a 3.45% interest rate on the $5,000 principal value.
In the calculation, the interest rate will have to be input as decimal. Convert it by dividing the interest rate by 100. In this example, this would be 3.45%/100 = 0.0345.
You also need to know how often the debt compounds. Typically, interest compounds annually, monthly or daily. For example, imagine that it compounds monthly. This means your compounding frequency ("c") would be input as 12.
Determine the length of time you want to measure. This could be a goal year for growth, like 5 or 10 years, or this maturity of a bond. The maturity date of a bond is the date that the principal amount of the debt is to be repaid. For the example, we use 2 years, so input 2.
3. Use the formula. Input your variables in the right places. Check again to make sure that you are inputting them correctly. Specifically, make sure that your interest rate is in decimal form and that you have used the right number for "c" (compounding frequency).
The example investment would be input as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}
Compute the exponent portion and the portion of the formula in parenthesis separately. This is a math concept called order of operations. You can learn more about the concept using this link: Apply the Order of Operations.
4. Finish the math computations in the formula. Simplify the problem by solving for the parts of the equation in parenthesis first, beginning with the fraction.
Divide the fraction within parentheses first. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}
Add the numbers within parentheses. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponent (the last part above the closing parenthesis). The result should look like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{24}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{24}}
Raise the number within the parentheses to the power of the exponent. This can be done on a calculator by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example) first, pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} button, then entering the exponent (24 in this case) and pressing enter. The result in the example is {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.0715)}FV=\$5000(1.0715)
Finally, multiply the principal by the number in parentheses. The result in the example is $5,000*1.0715, or $5,357.50. This is the value of the account at the end of the two years.
5. Subtract the principal from your answer. This will give you the amount of interest earned.
Subtract the principal of $5,000 from the future value of $5357.50 to get $5,375.50-$5,000, or $357.50
You will earn $357.50 in interest over the two years.

Part 3 Calculating Compound Interest With Regular Payments.
1. Learn the formula. Compounding interest accounts can increase even faster if you make regular contributions to them, such as adding a monthly amount to a savings account. The formula is longer than that used to calculate compound interest without regular payments, but follows the same principles. The formula is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}+{\frac {R((1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}-1)}{\frac {i}{c}}}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}+{\frac  {R((1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}-1)}{{\frac  {i}{c}}}}[7]The variables within the equation are also the same as the previous equation, with one addition.
"P" is the principal.
"i" is the annual interest rate.
"c" is the compounding frequency and represents how many times the interest is compounded each year.
"n" is the number of years.
"R" is the amount of the monthly contribution.
2. Compile the necessary variables. To compute the future value of this type of account, you will need the principal (or present value) of the account, the annual interest rate, the compounding frequency, the number of years being measured, and the amount of your monthly contribution. This information should be in your investment agreement.
Be sure to convert the annual interest rate into a decimal. Do this by dividing the rate by 100. For example, using the above 3.45% interest rate, we would divide 3.45 by 100 to get 0.0345.
For compounding frequency, simply use the number of times per year that the interest compounds. This means annually is 1, monthly is 12, and daily is 365 (don't worry about leap years).
3. Input your variables. Continuing with the example from above, imagine that you decide to also contribute $100 per month to your account. This account, with a principal value of $5,000, compounds monthly and earns 3.45% annual interest. We will measure the growth of the account over two years.
The completed formula using this information is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}-1)}{\frac {0.0345}{12}}}}FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}-1)}{{\frac  {0.0345}{12}}}}
4. Solve the equation. Again, remember to use the proper order of operations to do so. This means that you start by calculating the values inside of parentheses.
Solve for the fractions with parentheses first. This means dividing "i" by "c" in three places, all for the same result of 0.00288. The equation now looks like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+0.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the addition within the parentheses. This means adding the 1 to the result from the last part. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponents. This means multiplying the two numbers that are smaller and above the closing parentheses. In the example, this is 2*12 for a result of 24. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{24}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{24}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{24}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{24}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the exponents. This means raising the amount within parentheses to the result of the last step. On a calculator, this is done by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example), pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} key, and then entering the exponent value (which is 24 here). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}
Subtract. Subtract the one from the result of the last step in the right part of the equation (here 1.0715 minus 1). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}
Multiply. This means multiplying the principal by the number is the first set of parentheses and the monthly contribution by the same number in parentheses. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac {\$7.15}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac  {\$7.15}{0.00288}}
Divide the fraction. This gives {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64}FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64
Add. Finally, add the two number to get the future value of the account. This gives $5,357.50 + $2,482.64, or $7,840.14. This is the value of the account after the two years.
5. Subtract the principal and payments. To find the interest earned, you have to subtract the amount of money you put into the account. This means adding the principal, $5,000, to the total value of contributions made, which is 24 contributions (2 years* 12 months/year) times the $100 you put in each month for a total of $2,400. The total is $5,000 plus $2,400, or $7,400. Subtracting $7,400 from the future value of $7,840.14, you get the amount of interest earned, which is $440.14.
6. Extend your calculation. To really see the benefit of compound interest, imagine that you continue adding money monthly to the same account for twenty years instead of two. In this case, your future value would be about $45,000, even though you will have only contributed $29,000, meaning that you will have earned $16,000 in interest.

FAQ.
Question : What does "to the power of" mean?
Answer : "To the power of" refers to a particular numerical exponent. It is a multiplication in which a number appears as a factor that many times. For example, 2 to the power of 1 equals 2. 2 to the power of 2 equals 2x2, or 4, and 2 to the power of 3 is 2 x 2 x 2, or 8.
Question : How do I find the compound interest on a 29,870 loan at 6% interest?
Answer : First take out the amount by the formulae: principle(1+ r/100) to the power n (number of years), then take out the ci by subtracting the principle from the amount.
Question : What do I type on a calculator to find compound interest?
Answer : Compound interest can be calculated in several ways. The most common is to say that A=Pe^(rt) where P is the initial amount, "e" is a constant around 2.71, "r" is the interest rate (i.e. 7% would be entered in as 0.07), "t" is the duration in which the interest is being calculated in years and "A" is the final amount.
Question : How do I know if it's better to owe interest on something or to pay a lump sum at no interest?
Answer : Cost/value analysis. Calculate the total you'll pay under both methods and find the difference. Then compare that difference to the value of buying now (with a loan) versus later (lump sum).
Question : How do I find the future value and the compound interest if £4000 is invested for 5 years at 42% p.a?
Answer : Principal=$4000, n=5, R=42%,0.42. The formula: FV=PV(1+r)r aise power n and substitute the value.
Question : How do I calculate principal in compound interest?
Answer : Principal = fv = p(1 + i/c)ⁿc. Formula for principal in compound interest (1 + R/100), where R = rate.

Tips.

You can also calculate compound interest easily using an online compound interest calculator. The US Government hosts a good one at https://www.investor.gov/tools/calculators/compound-interest-calculator.
A quick rule of thumb to find compound interest is the "rule of 72." Start by dividing 72 by the amount of the interest your are earning, for example 4%. In this case, this would be 72/4, or 18. This result, 18, is roughly the number of years it will take for your investment to double at the current interest rate. Keep in mind that the rule of 72 is just a quick approximation, not an exact result.[8]
You can also use these calculations to perform "what-if" calculations that can tell you how much you will earn with a given interest rate, principal, compounding frequency, or number of years.
April 09, 2020


How to Help Elderly Parents With Finances.


Helping your elderly parents with finances can be a tricky thing to do. It can be frustrating for you and can cause hurt or embarrassment for your parents. If you go about it with discretion and respect, though, you can streamline your parents’ finances and remove a lot of stress from your and their lives. By communicating properly, budgeting, and simplifying their affairs, you’ll be able to help your elderly parents with their finances. In the end, you and your parents might be come closer, and you'll both have a lot less to worry about.



Method 1 Budgeting.

1. Find out their sources of income. Sit down with your parents and ask them to list their sources of income. If they are unable to list their income, keep an eye on their mailbox and wait for checks to arrive. In addition, contact their bank to find out if they have recurring direct deposits into their accounts. Some sources of income might include.

Social security.

Pensions.

Retirement accounts that include stocks, CDs, and bonds.

Real estate holdings.

2. List their expenses. After you’ve determined your parents’ income, you’ll need to list their expenses. You can also do this by sitting down with them and asking them to list expenses. However, if they can’t remember, you’ll have to wait on bills to arrive in the mail or for businesses to call them asking for payment. Some common expenses include.

Phone.

Cable and internet.

Utilities like electricity, gas, and water.

3. Meet with professionals who manage their affairs. In addition to getting records from your parents and tracking them down yourself, you should also meet with any professionals who manage aspects of your parents’ affairs. This includes lawyers, accountants, management companies, insurance agents and brokers. They will likely have valuable information about your parents' finances you need.

Don't be intimidated by professionals you may have to meet with. In most cases, they'll be happy to help you and your parents.

4. Cut expenses, if needed. Once you’ve gathered a list of their income and expenses, you’ll have a very good idea of what they can afford and what they can’t afford. When you have this information, start trimming expenses. This way, your parents’ income and savings will last them a lot longer than it would otherwise. Some things to cut include:

Cable.

Very large life insurance policies.

Magazine and newspaper subscriptions.

Charitable donations.

Cars or homes that have been financed.

5. Raise money for your parents, if they need it. In the case that your parents don’t have the income to meet their expenses, you’ll have to raise money to help them. There are a variety of things you can do without reaching into your own savings account. Consider:

Selling their home or getting them a reverse mortgage. A reverse mortgage is a loan that the borrower does not need to pay back until they sell the home.

Auctioning cars and other valuable possessions. Your parents might have valuable artwork, a car collection, or a piece of land somewhere that could be sold. That money may be just enough to meet their expenses.

Avoid taking loans or selling your parents' property before talking to them about it.

6. Find out if there are entitlements they are eligible for. In addition to identifying their current sources of income, you may be able to find entitlements or other sources of income for your elderly parents. To do this, check with your local, state/regional, or national governments. Don't worry, though, there are many resources available that will make this search easy.

For people in the United States, visit http://www.benefitscheckup.org to identify new sources of financial help for your parents.



Method 2 Organizing Their Affairs.

1. Get a power of attorney. A power of attorney will give you the legal right to act on your parents’ behalf in managing financial (and legal) aspects of their life. As a result, you’ll have the right to talk to your parents’ insurance companies, bank, pension administrators, and more. Without a power of attorney, you’ll have serious problems managing your parents’ finances.

2. Reduce the number of credit cards and checking accounts they have. Shut down all checking accounts and close all credit cards except for one or two. It will be very difficult for you to monitor their finances if they have many cards and accounts. Ultimately, it’ll be easier for you to follow one card and one checking account.

Verify that accounts and cards you intend to close do not have automatic payments or direct deposits attached to them.

3. Set up automated payments. Contact all the businesses that your parents have regular or recurring payments with. Provide them with a credit card number or a bank account number from which they can draft money that they are owed.

You may be able to do this through the business’s website.

4. Hire someone to manage their finances. If your parents’ finances are too complicated or their estate is too large for you to manage on your own, you may need to hire a third party to help you. In this event, a financial advisor, management company, or a law firm may be able to help you help your parents.

Determine if you or your parents have enough money/income to employ a professional financial manager.

5. Get their tax information. Ask your parents for their prior income tax returns. If they can’t find them, ask their accountant. With their tax information, you’ll be able to file the current year’s taxes, consolidate loans, and much more.

If you are unable to get tax information from your parents or their accountant, visit https://www.irs.gov/individuals/get-transcript to get transcripts of prior years taxes. Remember, though, you’ll need to have a power of attorney to do so.

6. Have them write or update their will. One aspect of your parents’ finances that they might neglect is their will. Their will is important as it will allow their estate to be settled relatively easily if they pass away. While this will probably be a tough conversation for both of you, you should ask them to write a will.

7. Document everything you do. Keep good records of everything you do for your parents. This includes keeping copies of checks you write, holding onto receipts for things you pay for, and taking notes of complicated financial issues. If you don’t document things well, you could find yourself in a legal battle with a sibling later on.



Method 3 Communicating Properly.

1. Ask if they want help. Before you take matters into your own hands and try to take control of your parents’ finances, you should ask them if they want help. Depending on their personality and position, they may respond negatively or affirmatively. Whatever their response, you'll at least open up communication and let your parents know that you are thinking of them.

If your parents are terminally ill or intellectually diminished, you may not need to ask them. Instead, talk to them and let them know you are going to try to organize their affairs.

2. Respect their wishes. Depending on your parents’ circumstances, you should respect their wishes as best as you can. If you disregard their wishes, you’ll probably alienate them and poison your relationship. By respecting their wishes, you’ll turn managing their finances into a positive experience.

3. Keep them involved. While you may be tempted to just take care of everything yourself, make sure that you keep your parents part of the discussion for a long as you can. This is important, as you don’t want them to ever be surprised about where they stand financially. In addition, if they stay active, they might fare better in terms of their health.

Schedule monthly meetings with your parents to talk about their finances. At the very least, take some time to let them know where they stand.



Tips.

Keep an eye out for signs of dementia; this is a signal to start taking great control of your parents' assets.

If you are working with your parents' finances, be sure and keep siblings informed in writing. This will help alleviate any tension about financial matters when your parents pass away, as that sibling or those siblings will be aware of what the state of your parents' finances are.

Warnings.

Educate your parents about scams. Request that they not mail any large payments to anyone for any reason without discussing it with you first.
February 25, 2020


How to Prepare Your Finances for a Job Leave.


Working people depend on having an income to live. You need to pay for housing, food, health care and many other things. Nevertheless, there may come a time when you want to be able to leave your job. The most common reasons are either retirement or a temporary leave to change jobs or careers. Whatever your reason for wanting to leave work, you will need to make financial plans. You will need to set aside some savings and make changes to your spending. Your mortgage and insurance costs will be an important part of the picture as well. With adequate planning, you can make it happen.



Method 1 Setting a Target.

1. Choose a date. Some people may decide at the start of their career that they want to work to age 50, or 55, or some other number. If you would like to make this a goal, you need to set your target and then work toward it. Claiming to have a goal means nothing unless you take steps to get there, but your first step is to decide what you want.

2. Identify an event. Your target to leave your present job may be some event, such as reaching a particular level of expertise or the day your supervisor leaves. Some of these targeting events may be under your control, and some may not. The less certain the event, the more prepared you will need to be.

For example, you may have decided that you want to leave your present company if they ever sell out or merge with some other company. Since you cannot control something like this and may not know when it is coming, you should try to have some alternative source of employment at least in mind for when the time comes.

In the event of a maternity leave, you may not know for years exactly when it is coming, but then in the final nine months (or so) you will know almost exactly. You can plan in general to have some savings set aside, and then when you get pregnant you can begin making some specific last-minute preparations.

Sometimes, the "event" that triggers a temporary leave might be a long-term illness, either yours or someone you need to care for. This can come with almost no advance warning. You need to plan for the general contingency and make some emergency preparations.

3. Plan a savings target. This is probably the most controllable concept. You can sit down with a financial planner and decide how much money you would need to have in savings to allow yourself and your family to survive adequately without your income. Then work toward setting aside that amount of money. As time goes by and interest rates fluctuate, you may need to adjust your plans accordingly. However, setting the target and doing the work up front will help you be as prepared as you can be.

If your target is to retire early, financial experts recommend that your savings target should be about 25 times your annual salary. You will then be able to withdraw money at the rate of about 4% per year.

If you target is to be able to leave work temporarily to look for a new job or another reason, then your target will be whatever amount you need to meet your expenses for that time. For example, the average job search is approximately four to six months, so you should plan to have savings to cover your living costs for that long.



Method 2 Reaching Your Target.

1. Work with a financial adviser. If you want to plan for leaving your job, you should enlist the help of a qualified financial adviser. Someone with expertise in investing can help you decide how much you need to save and can help you find the best ways to invest. If you want some help with finding a qualified financial adviser, read Hire a Financial Advisor or Select a Financial Advisor.

2. Invest your savings carefully. Working with your financial adviser, you will want to do more than just place your earnings in a bank account. Simple savings accounts earn very low interest. You will do better to invest in bonds, stocks or other securities, in accordance with your adviser’s opinions.

Investing works best when you begin as early as possible. Your best ally when saving is time. Your interest compounds more effectively when you begin early.

If your focus is to be able to take a temporary leave at some time, then you may need to have your savings in a readily accessible account. Long-term IRA savings are good for retirement planning, but you may need to be able to withdraw money sooner. Work with your adviser to find the best investment or savings plans for your needs.

If you want to plan for a lengthy, temporary leave, such as for a maternity or family illness, you will want to have savings in some readily accessible account. A short-term bond or money market may be the best bet, or even a simple savings account that you earmark for such an emergency.

3. Cut your expenses as much as possible. Many people live their lives from month to month and use a great deal of their income. If you manage a budget this way, you will do fine from month to month, but you will greatly delay your savings plan. If your goal is to be able to leave work, you should begin by cutting expenses as much as possible.

To begin cutting expenses, start by listing them all. Then review how you spend your money over a one- to three-month period and identify the expenses that you believe you can live without. Perhaps you can reduce the number of times that you go out to dinner. Maybe you can cut some entertainment expenses.

Manage your utilities. Try to reduce some of your monthly expenses by reducing utility usage in your home. Manage the heat, turn off lights, and do what you can to save water. These sound like small steps, but over time they can all add up.

Cutting expenses is a powerful financial tool for any job leave, whether permanent/retirement or a temporary leave for illness, maternity or some other reason. You need to consider the absence from work as an overall change in your lifestyle.

4. Plan to spend some on your new job search. Part of setting your target, if you are anticipating leaving your current job, should be to have some savings available to spend on a search for a new one. You will need money for correspondence, printing resumes, travel, parking, and possibly one or two new interview suits. You should anticipate these costs, estimate the amount of money that you will need, and set this aside as part of your target savings.



Method 3 Handling Your Mortgage.

1. Recognize the importance of your mortgage. For most people, housing payments make up the largest expenses they have. If you are paying rent, rather than owning your residence, those monthly payments are effectively doing nothing for you. If possible, purchase a property and get a mortgage. In this way, your monthly payments will be building equity for you. At the end of your mortgage, you will own the property outright in your own name.

2. Aim for your target date. As much as possible, try to align your mortgage to your target retirement date. That is, if you are relatively young and just starting out, then you may want to get a 30 year mortgage to last the duration of your career. However, if you can afford the monthly payments of a shorter mortgage, you will be setting aside money toward your equity at a faster rate.

3. Refinance when possible. When mortgage interest rates go down, you should try to refinance. By refinancing, you will get a lower interest rate and reduce your monthly payments. You may also take that opportunity to refinance into a shorter term. For example, if you started out with a 30 year mortgage, you may be able to refinance to a 20-year or even 10-year mortgage, for roughly the same (or even lower) monthly payment amount. More of the money, that way, will be going to pay down the principal loan.

4. Downsize after retiring. When you do leave your job, whether for permanent retirement or as a temporary leave, you may want to consider changing your residence. Many retirees choose to move to a smaller house with a lower expenses and mortgage costs. You may also wish to move to a different part of the country with lower overall costs of living.



Method 4 Making Other Miscellaneous Arrrangements.

1. Investigate your employer's maternity leave benefits. Some employers will offer paid maternity leave for some period of time. Others may stick to the allotted unpaid leave that is required under the Family and Medical Leave Act, which allows up to 12 weeks of unpaid leave. However, many small employers are even exempt from this. You need to find out what policy your employer has, and use that information to help you determine what financial help you will need.

For a maternity leave, you can also investigate whether you can be covered under short term disability insurance. This could provide a portion of your salary during your leave. To investigate coverage, you should talk with your employer or human resources personnel, or your own insurance company.

2. Plan some alternative, temporary income. If you are out of work temporarily, either looking for a new job, on a maternity leave, caring for an ill family member or for some other reason, you may want to plan for some temporary work that you can do. Find something that gives you the flexibility that you need to go along with your leave, but still provides some income for you and your family. For example.

Even with a new baby or an ill family member, you can probably find some time to tutor a few students a week or teach music lessons (if you have that talent).

You might be able to do some freelance writing or editing.

3. Transfer your company-based savings plans. If you participated in an employer-based savings or retirement plan, you should transfer that plan when you leave. Your financial adviser may be able to help you set up a personal IRA, or you might talk to an investments adviser at your bank.

4. Collect any payout benefits. If your company allowed you to accrue vacation time or sick time, you might be able to cash that in and collect an additional payment in accordance with your contract. In some cases, this can be a valuable payoff amount.

In some cases, you may be able to collect a partial cash payout for unused sick or vacation days to provide some cash for a temporary emergency leave, such as a family illness or bereavement leave. Even if such a benefit is not standard, you may want to talk with your employer and come up with some creative possibilities.

If you are not aware whether or not you have such a benefit, contact your company’s human resources department and ask.

5. Maximize stock options, if any. If you were granted the option to purchase stock in the company, and you have not exercised that option to its fullest potential, you should do so before leaving. These options can often be very valuable and will not be available to you later.

Depending on your contract, you may have a set period of time to purchase such options upon your separation from the company.

6. Plan for health insurance. One of the primary benefits of employment is having health insurance. When you plan to leave, whether for permanent retirement or a temporary leave for a job change, you will need to make plans for some replacement health insurance. You may wish to investigate the following options:

If you are under age 26, your parents may be able to add you to their health plan.

If you participated in the insurance plan through your employer, you may be eligible through COBRA to continue on that plan for up to 3 years by making your own monthly payments.

Your spouse or partner may be able to add you to their health plan.
February 25, 2020

How to Split Expenses As a Couple.


Splitting expenses as a couple is an important aspect of having a stable relationship, especially if you’re living together. There are several ways to split expenses. One way is to split everything right down the middle, so each person pays half. The other way is for each person to pay for what they can afford. The final way is for one person to pay all or most of the expenses. If one of you works little or not at all, that person should make up the difference by contributing energy toward domestic tasks. Finally, ensure you’re covering yourself by keeping separate bank accounts and not cosigning loans with your partner.



Method 1 Choosing the Right Method.

1. Determine what expenses qualify as shared. Sometimes it is easy to identify a shared expense. For instance, heating, water, and electricity are house-wide expenses and you will both, presumably, enjoy their use in approximately equal amounts. But it might be harder to justify sharing other expenses. If you have TV service at your home, for instance, but only one of you watches TV, it makes little sense to split that particular expense.

Talk to your partner about which expenditures they believe should be considered shared and which should be considered individual expenses.

2. Split expenses evenly. By splitting every expense evenly, you and your partner have a form of equality in the relationship. This is probably the most logical way to split expenses for couples who have equal or roughly equal incomes.

There are many ways to split expenses 50/50. You might choose to split each expense as it comes in. Alternately, you might reconcile receipts at the end of each month and pay your partner whatever is “owed.” Talk to your partner about which method works best for you.

You don’t need to split everything perfectly evenly. Creating a spreadsheet to track expenses, or otherwise accounting for every penny spent between you can reduce your relationship to a purely economic exchange that takes the romance out of it. Even if you split household bills, it’s still okay to treat your significant other to dinner or a date when you go out.

For instance, you might take turns paying for dinner. Even if your dinners don’t total the exact same amount each time you go out to eat, over time, you’ll each probably end paying about the same amount. This qualifies as a form of splitting costs evenly.

3. Split your expenses according to income. This expense-splitting technique calls for the person with the higher income paying for a larger share of the household expenses. In other words, equality is achieved through each person in the relationship paying expenses according to their ability.

For example, suppose you earn $3,000 per month and your partner earns $2,000 each month. In this case, you should pay for 60% of the expenses, since your income is 60% of the total household income (the figure you get when you combine the incomes of you and your partner).

Talk carefully with your partner to make sure that there are no hidden issues before going forward with this method. In some cases, your partner may feel as though they are contributing too much or too little if this method is used.

4. Share expenses unevenly. In this method, one person will pay for the majority of household expenses. This is the natural choice to make when one person in the relationship has way more income than the other person. However, if both you and your partner make a lot of money, either of you could choose to take on an expense-splitting arrangement like this.

A fair arrangement doesn’t necessarily need to divide all expenses perfectly. For instance, one of you could take the internet bill while the other takes the power bill. Divide things up according to whichever scheme suits your situation.

5. Be willing to trade time and money. If you work and your partner doesn’t or if your partner works but you do not, there are other ways you can come to a fair arrangement by thinking about the work (as well as the money) it takes to run a household. Domestic work – cleaning, cooking, and doing the laundry – is crucial to keeping a household going. It makes little sense for one person to both complete all these tasks and also provide financial stability for you as a couple.

Think about splitting the total amount of work that each of you do as a couple rather than thinking of splitting expenses along purely financial lines.



Method 2 Splitting Food Expenses.

1. Figure out your food budget. Your food budget is the total you spend on food over a given period. To get an accurate picture of how much you spend on food, track your expenses over a certain period of time. Tracking over a month is a good unit of time, since depending on how much you and your partner eat, you might not spend much on food.

Use a shared spreadsheet in Google Doc or another program to track your expenditures. Your document should indicate each item you bought and how much it cost.

Alternatively, try a low-tech route like writing your grocery and dining-out expenses on a piece of lined paper.

Keep your receipts while tracking your food budget.

2. Analyze the budget. Once you’ve figured out your food budget, evaluate the information with your partner. Are you spending too much, too little, or just the right amount? Look for areas where you can cut expenses.

For instance, instead of spending so much on junk food and snacks, try to find healthy alternatives like fruit or veggies and hummus.

Instead of eating out so much, try eating at home more often. Make cooking together a couple's activity.

Eliminate or reduce your alcohol consumption for more savings.

3. Decide how to split the food expenditures. You can use an income-based method to choose how to split the food expenses, or split the food expenses according to consumption patterns. Whatever method you choose, ensure you and your partner agree on how much money you should be spending on food, and ensure you both set aside money each month for your grocery budget.

Let go of small differences in food consumption. Even if your partner eats more than you, constantly analyzing how much money each person owes for food can put a strain on the relationship.



Method 3 Being Smart About Shared Finances.

1. Plan for emergencies. Both you and your partner should have money saved in the event that one or both of you needs to pay for surgery, a new vehicle, or another large expense. Try to set aside at least 25% of your monthly income for savings.

You should have at least six months’ worth of income saved to cover periods of potential unemployment.

Be sure to set beneficiaries on your retirement and insurance plans, too.

If you separate from your partner, don’t forget to change your beneficiary list.

2. Have regular financial checkups. Every month or two, you and your partner should have a conversation about where you’re both at financially. Are you still both increasing your savings? Do you have enough saved to cover an emergency? Are you both still comfortable with the way expenses are being shared? Talk to your partner about these and other related issues.

Make budgeting and financial planning an activity you do together. This can be more successful or even exciting if you are both working towards a common goal, such as a vacation or purchasing a home.

Always be honest about your finances. If you are struggling financially, you should admit to your partner that you’re having money problems. That way they can help you out by either loaning you money, helping you find another job, or taking other action that can help.

Encourage your partner to be honest with you about their spending habits and their happiness with your current financial arrangement. If your partner lies about money matters, you should seriously consider ending the relationship.

Don’t let your partner push you into a purchase you can’t really afford. For instance, if you can’t afford a new car but your partner really wants you to have one, stand firm and insist that you will not make such a purchase. If they love you, they will respect your decision.

3. Do not move in with your significant other for financial reasons. Living with someone else and sharing expenses does save money, but if you make the decision to shack up based on the potential economic benefit, your relationship will be on an unstable foundation. Only move in together if you’re truly in love with the person and ready to be in close proximity to them night and day. This will make splitting finances just one part of your relationship, and not its entire basis.

4. Avoid borrowing money. Not only is it annoying for your partner, but it might make them suspicious of your financial health and question your intentions. It’s okay to borrow money in an emergency situation, but don’t make a regular habit of it.

If your partner regularly asks to borrow money, you should inquire as to why they constantly need money. They may have lost their job or have unpaid debts you don’t know about.

5. Avoid sharing debts. Cosigning a loan for your partner is never a good idea. The last thing you want to do is end up saddled with debt that you did not personally incur. Only make a large investment with your partner like a house or car if you are in a stable, long-term relationship.

You should ask your partner about any debts or liabilities that they may hold. Be honest about your own debt as well. Keeping these secret can ruin a relationship when the debt is discovered by the other partner.

Always put both your names on the lease, mortgage, or loan. This will allow you some degree of protection in the event you and your partner separate.

For mortgages, consult a real-estate attorney to help you figure out the best way to negotiate your local real estate laws as they relate to your relationship. A married couple has different options for taking out a home loan than an unmarried couple.

For auto loans, too, you (and your partner) should talk to a financial officer at your local bank or credit union. There are many variables that could impact whether you and your partner decide to take out an individual loan or cosign the loan. Seek advice relevant to your living situation in order to get the lowest interest rates and avoid shared debt.

6. Do not share assets. Assets are valuable possessions or investments. Common assets include bank accounts as well as big-ticket items. Typical material assets include houses, cars, and boats. These items should never be purchased using both your names. Otherwise, you might end up wrangling over ownership in the event you separate.

Bank accounts, likewise, should never be shared between you and your partner. These accounts can be a source of tension should one partner decide to use the money for themselves.

If you want to set up a shared account with your partner – for instance, an account either of you can use to pay bills – keep it completely separate from your personal account. Put a small amount of money in it each month along with your partner, and use it only to pay the bills you intended it for.


February 25, 2020