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How to Find the Total Amount Paid in an Interest Rate Equation.


If you have been given a math problem that requires you to find the total amount of money paid over a certain period of time, don’t worry. These equations are simple to solve if you understand what the parts of the equation are and how to use them.

Method 1 Understanding Interest Rate Equations.
1. Understand the terms you will be working with in your interest rate equation. When you are solving an interest rate equation, such as that for an interest rate you have for a loan you took out, you will work with several different variables. These include.
P = principal amount borrowed.
i = the interest rate.
N = the term of the loan, in years.
F = the total amount paid at the end of the designated number of years.
2. Know the equation used to calculate the total amount you will pay. To find the total amount paid at the end of the number of years you pay back your loan for, you will have to multiply the principal amount borrowed with 1 plus the interest rate. Then, raise that sum to the power of the number of years. The equation looks like this.
F = P(1 + i)^N
3. Read through the equation you are given and determine which numbers coincide with each variable of the equation. Normally, interest rate problems will be given in sentence format and you will have to figure out what each number represents. For example, you are given: “You borrow $4,000 from a bank and promise to repay the loan principal plus the accumulated interest in four years at a rate of 10% per year. How much would you repay at the end of 4 years?”.
P would be $4,000.
i would be 10%.
N would be 4 years.
F would be what you are trying to find.
4. Plug the known numbers into the equation for fixed rate. Once you have figured out what numbers you are working with, you can plug the numbers in so that you can work with the equation to find the fixed rate. Our equation would be:
F = 4000(1 + 10%)^4. Note that to make things easier, you can convert the interest percentage to decimals so the equation would be F = 4000(1 + 0.1)^4

Method 2 Solving an Interest Rate Equation to Find the Total Amount Paid.
1. Work through the problem in stages. In order to find the total amount you will pay over the course of the time you pay back a loan, you will have to work through the article in stages. Let’s look at an example article.
”You borrow 5,000 from a bank and plan to repay the loan principal, plus and accumulated interest in five years. The rate of the interest is 10%. How much will you pay, in total, at the end of the five years?
2. Create your equation. Once you have read through the article, create an equation based on the standard equation F = P(1 + i)^N. For our question, our equation would be:
F = 5000(1 + 0.1)^5.
3. Solve the inside of the parentheses first. When you have written out your equation, start to solve your problem. The first step towards doing this is to solve the equation within the parentheses first. For our equation:
Solve (1 + 0.1) = 1.1. So now our equation looks like this: F = 5000(1.1)^5.
4. Use N to solve the next part of the equation. Once you have simplified the information in the parentheses, you should move onto applying the years (N) of the equation. This means raising the number inside the parentheses to the Nth degree. For our equation:
(1.1)^5 means multiplying 1.1 to itself five times. In this case, (1.1)^5 = 1.61051.
5. Finish the equation. You should now only have one step left in the process of solving your equation. To finish the equation and find F, or the total amount paid, you will have to multiply P with the number in the parentheses. For our equation:
F = 5000(1.61051) therefore, F = $8,052.55. That means that you would have paid $8,052.55 over the course of the five years.

Tips.
Don't forget to chance the interest rate (%) into decimals.
April 10, 2020


How to Calculate Compound Interest.

Compound interest is distinct from simple interest in that interest is earned both on the original investment (the principal) and the interest accumulated so far, rather than simply on the principal. Because of this, accounts with compound interest grow faster than those with simple interest. Additionally, the value will grow even faster if the interest is compounded multiple times per year. Compound interest is offered on a variety of investment products and also charged on certain types of loans, like credit card debt. Calculating how much an amount will grow under compound interest is simple with the right equations.

Part 1 Finding Annual Compound Interest.
1. Define annual compounding. The interest rate stated on your investment prospectus or loan agreement is an annual rate. If your car loan, for example, is a 6% loan, you pay 6% interest each year. Compounding once at the end of the year is the easiest calculation for compounding interest.
A debt may compound interest annually, monthly or even daily.
The more frequently your debt compounds, the faster you will accumulate interest.
You can look at compound interest from the investor or the debtor’s point of view. Frequent compounding means that the investor’s interest earnings will increase at a faster rate. It also means that the debtor will owe more interest while the debt is outstanding.
For example, a savings account may be compounded annually, while a pay-day loan can be compounded monthly or even weekly.
2. Calculate interest compounding annually for year one. Assume that you own a $1,000, 6% savings bond issued by the US Treasury. Treasury savings bonds pay out interest each year based on their interest rate and current value.
Interest paid in year 1 would be $60 ($1,000 multiplied by 6% = $60).
To calculate interest for year 2, you need to add the original principal amount to all interest earned to date. In this case, the principal for year 2 would be ($1,000 + $60 = $1,060). The value of the bond is now $1,060 and the interest payment will be calculated from this value.
3. Compute interest compounding for later years. To see the bigger impact of compound interest, compute interest for later years. As you move from year to year, the principal amount continues to grow.
Multiply the year 2 principal amount by the bond’s interest rate. ($1,060 X 6% = $63.60). The interest earned is higher by $3.60 ($63.60 - $60.00). That’s because the principal amount increased from $1,000 to $1,060.
For year 3, the principal amount is ($1,060 + $63.60 = $1,123.60). The interest earned in year 3 is $67.42. That amount is added to the principal balance for the year 4 calculation.
The longer a debt is outstanding, the bigger the impact of compounding interest. Outstanding means that the debt is still owed by the debtor.
Without compounding, the year 2 interest would simply be ($1,000 X 6% = $60). In fact, every year’s interest earned would be $60 if you did earn compound interest. This is known as simple interest.
4. Create an excel document to compute compound interest. It can be handy to visualize compound interest by creating a simple model in excel that shows the growth of your investment. Start by opening a document and labeling the top cell in columns A, B, and C "Year," "Value," and "Interest Earned," respectively.
Enter the years (0-5) in cells A2 to A7.
Enter your principal in cell B2. For example, imagine you are started with $1,000. Input 1000.
In cell B3, type "=B2*1.06" and press enter. This means that your interest is being compounded annually at 6% (0.06). Click on the lower right corner of cell B3 and drag the formula down to cell B7. The numbers will fill in appropriately.
Place a 0 in cell C2. In cell C3, type "=B3-B$2" and press enter. This should give you the difference between the values in cell B3 and B2, which represents the interest earned. Click on the lower right corner of cell C3 and drag the formula down to cell C7. The values will fill themselves in.
Continue this process to replicate the process for as many years as you want to track. You can also easily change values for principal and interest rate by altering the formulas used and cell contents.

Part 2 Calculating Compound Interest on Investments.
1. Learn the compound interest formula. The compound interest formula solves for the future value of the investment after set number of years. The formula itself is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}} The variables within the equation are defined as follows:
"FV" is the future value. This is the result of the calculation.
"P" is your principal.
"i" represents the annual interest rate.
"c" represents the compounding frequency (how many times the interest compounds each year).
"n" represents the number of years being measured.
2. Gather variables the compound interest formula. If interest compounds more often than annually, it is difficult to calculate the formula manually. You can use a compound interest formula for any calculation. To use the formula, you need to gather the following information.
Identify the principal of the investment. This is the original amount of your investment. This could be how much you deposited into the account or the original cost of the bond. For example, imagine your principal in an investment account is $5,000.
Locate the interest rate for the debt. The interest rate should be an annual amount, stated as a percentage of the principal. For example, a 3.45% interest rate on the $5,000 principal value.
In the calculation, the interest rate will have to be input as decimal. Convert it by dividing the interest rate by 100. In this example, this would be 3.45%/100 = 0.0345.
You also need to know how often the debt compounds. Typically, interest compounds annually, monthly or daily. For example, imagine that it compounds monthly. This means your compounding frequency ("c") would be input as 12.
Determine the length of time you want to measure. This could be a goal year for growth, like 5 or 10 years, or this maturity of a bond. The maturity date of a bond is the date that the principal amount of the debt is to be repaid. For the example, we use 2 years, so input 2.
3. Use the formula. Input your variables in the right places. Check again to make sure that you are inputting them correctly. Specifically, make sure that your interest rate is in decimal form and that you have used the right number for "c" (compounding frequency).
The example investment would be input as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}
Compute the exponent portion and the portion of the formula in parenthesis separately. This is a math concept called order of operations. You can learn more about the concept using this link: Apply the Order of Operations.
4. Finish the math computations in the formula. Simplify the problem by solving for the parts of the equation in parenthesis first, beginning with the fraction.
Divide the fraction within parentheses first. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}
Add the numbers within parentheses. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponent (the last part above the closing parenthesis). The result should look like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{24}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{24}}
Raise the number within the parentheses to the power of the exponent. This can be done on a calculator by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example) first, pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} button, then entering the exponent (24 in this case) and pressing enter. The result in the example is {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.0715)}FV=\$5000(1.0715)
Finally, multiply the principal by the number in parentheses. The result in the example is $5,000*1.0715, or $5,357.50. This is the value of the account at the end of the two years.
5. Subtract the principal from your answer. This will give you the amount of interest earned.
Subtract the principal of $5,000 from the future value of $5357.50 to get $5,375.50-$5,000, or $357.50
You will earn $357.50 in interest over the two years.

Part 3 Calculating Compound Interest With Regular Payments.
1. Learn the formula. Compounding interest accounts can increase even faster if you make regular contributions to them, such as adding a monthly amount to a savings account. The formula is longer than that used to calculate compound interest without regular payments, but follows the same principles. The formula is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}+{\frac {R((1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}-1)}{\frac {i}{c}}}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}+{\frac  {R((1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}-1)}{{\frac  {i}{c}}}}[7]The variables within the equation are also the same as the previous equation, with one addition.
"P" is the principal.
"i" is the annual interest rate.
"c" is the compounding frequency and represents how many times the interest is compounded each year.
"n" is the number of years.
"R" is the amount of the monthly contribution.
2. Compile the necessary variables. To compute the future value of this type of account, you will need the principal (or present value) of the account, the annual interest rate, the compounding frequency, the number of years being measured, and the amount of your monthly contribution. This information should be in your investment agreement.
Be sure to convert the annual interest rate into a decimal. Do this by dividing the rate by 100. For example, using the above 3.45% interest rate, we would divide 3.45 by 100 to get 0.0345.
For compounding frequency, simply use the number of times per year that the interest compounds. This means annually is 1, monthly is 12, and daily is 365 (don't worry about leap years).
3. Input your variables. Continuing with the example from above, imagine that you decide to also contribute $100 per month to your account. This account, with a principal value of $5,000, compounds monthly and earns 3.45% annual interest. We will measure the growth of the account over two years.
The completed formula using this information is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}-1)}{\frac {0.0345}{12}}}}FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}-1)}{{\frac  {0.0345}{12}}}}
4. Solve the equation. Again, remember to use the proper order of operations to do so. This means that you start by calculating the values inside of parentheses.
Solve for the fractions with parentheses first. This means dividing "i" by "c" in three places, all for the same result of 0.00288. The equation now looks like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+0.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the addition within the parentheses. This means adding the 1 to the result from the last part. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponents. This means multiplying the two numbers that are smaller and above the closing parentheses. In the example, this is 2*12 for a result of 24. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{24}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{24}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{24}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{24}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the exponents. This means raising the amount within parentheses to the result of the last step. On a calculator, this is done by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example), pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} key, and then entering the exponent value (which is 24 here). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}
Subtract. Subtract the one from the result of the last step in the right part of the equation (here 1.0715 minus 1). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}
Multiply. This means multiplying the principal by the number is the first set of parentheses and the monthly contribution by the same number in parentheses. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac {\$7.15}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac  {\$7.15}{0.00288}}
Divide the fraction. This gives {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64}FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64
Add. Finally, add the two number to get the future value of the account. This gives $5,357.50 + $2,482.64, or $7,840.14. This is the value of the account after the two years.
5. Subtract the principal and payments. To find the interest earned, you have to subtract the amount of money you put into the account. This means adding the principal, $5,000, to the total value of contributions made, which is 24 contributions (2 years* 12 months/year) times the $100 you put in each month for a total of $2,400. The total is $5,000 plus $2,400, or $7,400. Subtracting $7,400 from the future value of $7,840.14, you get the amount of interest earned, which is $440.14.
6. Extend your calculation. To really see the benefit of compound interest, imagine that you continue adding money monthly to the same account for twenty years instead of two. In this case, your future value would be about $45,000, even though you will have only contributed $29,000, meaning that you will have earned $16,000 in interest.

FAQ.
Question : What does "to the power of" mean?
Answer : "To the power of" refers to a particular numerical exponent. It is a multiplication in which a number appears as a factor that many times. For example, 2 to the power of 1 equals 2. 2 to the power of 2 equals 2x2, or 4, and 2 to the power of 3 is 2 x 2 x 2, or 8.
Question : How do I find the compound interest on a 29,870 loan at 6% interest?
Answer : First take out the amount by the formulae: principle(1+ r/100) to the power n (number of years), then take out the ci by subtracting the principle from the amount.
Question : What do I type on a calculator to find compound interest?
Answer : Compound interest can be calculated in several ways. The most common is to say that A=Pe^(rt) where P is the initial amount, "e" is a constant around 2.71, "r" is the interest rate (i.e. 7% would be entered in as 0.07), "t" is the duration in which the interest is being calculated in years and "A" is the final amount.
Question : How do I know if it's better to owe interest on something or to pay a lump sum at no interest?
Answer : Cost/value analysis. Calculate the total you'll pay under both methods and find the difference. Then compare that difference to the value of buying now (with a loan) versus later (lump sum).
Question : How do I find the future value and the compound interest if £4000 is invested for 5 years at 42% p.a?
Answer : Principal=$4000, n=5, R=42%,0.42. The formula: FV=PV(1+r)r aise power n and substitute the value.
Question : How do I calculate principal in compound interest?
Answer : Principal = fv = p(1 + i/c)ⁿc. Formula for principal in compound interest (1 + R/100), where R = rate.

Tips.

You can also calculate compound interest easily using an online compound interest calculator. The US Government hosts a good one at https://www.investor.gov/tools/calculators/compound-interest-calculator.
A quick rule of thumb to find compound interest is the "rule of 72." Start by dividing 72 by the amount of the interest your are earning, for example 4%. In this case, this would be 72/4, or 18. This result, 18, is roughly the number of years it will take for your investment to double at the current interest rate. Keep in mind that the rule of 72 is just a quick approximation, not an exact result.[8]
You can also use these calculations to perform "what-if" calculations that can tell you how much you will earn with a given interest rate, principal, compounding frequency, or number of years.
April 09, 2020


How to Protect Your Finances when Your Spouse Files for Bankruptcy.


When your spouse files for bankruptcy, the bankruptcy should not affect your credit score. However, you may still be affected in other ways. For example, you will still have to pay off joint debts. Also, the bankruptcy trustee can seize any property your spouse owns, even if you are a joint owner. Accordingly, you and your spouse should carefully consider which bankruptcy is best for the family or whether you should pursue a non-bankruptcy option.



Part 1 Identifying Joint and Separate Property.

1. Identify all property you and your spouse own. When your spouse files for bankruptcy, they will have to list all of their property on a schedule and report it. The trustee uses this information to determine the size of the bankruptcy estate. This information is important because the trustee may be able to force your spouse to sell property in order to pay their creditors. The less property your spouse owns, the better off they will be.

Go through your possessions and estimate how much the property is worth. Also figure out who owns it.

As a spouse, you want to be on the lookout for property you jointly own with your spouse. Unless this property is exempt, it goes into your spouse's estate, which means you might lose it depending on the bankruptcy your spouse files.

2. Check if you live in a community property state. The ownership of certain property may depend on the state where you are living. Some states are “community property” states, and this means that any property you or your spouse acquired during the marriage is owned equally by both of you.

For example, you might have bought a car. In a community property state, the car is generally considered the property of both you and your spouse—regardless of whether your spouse is on the title.

The following are community property states: Arizona, California, Idaho, Louisiana, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Washington, and Wisconsin. Community property laws also apply in some situations in Alaska.

Because community property laws differ, you should work closely with a lawyer in your state to identify all property that will be counted as part of the bankruptcy estate.

3. Determine ownership in a common law state. If you don't live in a community property state, then you live in a common law state. In common law states, the owner is generally the person whose name is on the title. If your name alone appears on the title, then the asset probably will not be included in the bankruptcy estate.

If both names are on the title, then you and your spouse both own half of the asset and the asset will have to be listed as part of the bankruptcy estate.

The trustee might be able to force a sale of the asset if they can convince the judge that the benefit of selling the asset outweighs any detriment you will face. However, the trustee will still have to pay you the full-value of your half of the asset. The trustee can only use the portion your bankrupt spouse owned to pay their creditors.

4. Check if you own your home in “tenancy by the entirety.” This is a form of ownership in which the asset is owned by the marriage. Many couples own their home in tenancy by the entirety. Depending on your state, assets owned in this manner are exempted from the bankruptcy estate.

5. Identify bankruptcy exemptions. You can exempt property from being counted as part of your spouse's estate. Each state has bankruptcy exemptions which you can use. The federal government also has a list of exemptions. In some states, you can choose between the state or federal exemptions, whereas other states will require that you use the state exemptions.

In Missouri, for example, you can exempt up to $15,000 in a home that you live in or up to $5,000 in a mobile home. You can also exempt up to $3,000 in a motor vehicle.

Say you and your spouse jointly own a car in Missouri. If the car is worth $16,000, then your spouse has $8,000 in the car. Only $3,000 is exempt. Accordingly, the trustee might want to sell the car and use the $5,000 to pay off creditors. If the trustee sells the car, they must pay the spouse who didn't file for bankruptcy $8,000.

In some states, you can double an exemption if you file a joint bankruptcy petition so long as you both own the property. For example, if the state allows you to exempt $3,000 in a car, then you can exempt $6,000 if you and your spouse own it together.

6. Avoid transferring property. You might think you can protect your assets by having your spouse transfer them before filing for bankruptcy. If you live in a common law state, you might think you can make the transfer into your name so that you hold title to all of the family property and your spouse holds only the debts individually. Unfortunately, this tactic won't work.

Instead, your spouse must report all transfers. If your spouse transferred the property during the two years before they filed for bankruptcy, then the trustee can get the property back.

Your spouse will also get in trouble if they try to hide the transfer. Everyone files a bankruptcy petition under penalty of perjury. If caught lying, your spouse could be prosecuted and have the entire bankruptcy cancelled.



Part 2 Handling Joint Debts.

1. Identify your joint debts. You and your spouse might have joint debts. This means that you both have agreed to be 100% responsible for the full debt. Accordingly, if your spouse files for bankruptcy, you are not relieved of your responsibility for the debt. Although your spouse will have their obligation discharged, your obligation will not be. You will still remain responsible for the entire amount. Joint debts can be formed in the following ways.

You and your spouse took out the debt together.

You cosigned on a loan for your spouse.

You live in a community property state and you or your spouse took out a debt during the marriage.

2. Continue to make payments on your joint debts. If you have a joint debt—say, for your car—then you must continue to make payments on it, even if you are the spouse who didn't file for bankruptcy. If you stop, then your credit score will take a hit because your missed payments will be reported to the credit reporting agencies.

3. Consider filing a joint bankruptcy petition. You have the option of filing for bankruptcy along with your spouse. By doing so, you can discharge joint debts.[12] After a discharge, neither you nor your spouse is responsible for the joint debt.

Of course, a bankruptcy stays on your credit report for several years, and neither you nor your spouse will probably be able to secure new credit in the near future.

Nevertheless, a joint bankruptcy can be an excellent option if you have high joint debts which you have no way of paying off in the future. A joint bankruptcy can free you and your spouse of these crushing joint debts.



Part 3 Choosing the Right Bankruptcy.

1. Identify the different types of bankruptcy. U.S. law provides many different types of bankruptcies, but the two most common for individuals are Chapter 7 and Chapter 13. You should analyze which is best for you, depending on your circumstances.

Chapter 7. This is called a “liquidation” bankruptcy. In a Chapter 7, your spouse can wipe out all of their debts. However, in order to get that benefit, they generally must sell non-exempt property and use the proceeds to pay their creditors.

Chapter 13. In a Chapter 13, the debtor gets to keep their property. Instead of selling it, they will pay back creditors for three to five years. At the end of the repayment period, any remaining unsecured debts (like credit cards) will be forgiven. Chapter 13 is a good option if you have a lot of non-exempt property that is jointly owned.

Joint bankruptcy petition. A joint bankruptcy petition may be the best option if you and your spouse have large joint debts. You can file both Chapter 7 and 13 jointly.

2. Meet with an attorney. Only a qualified bankruptcy attorney can analyze your situation and identify the best course of action. You should get a referral to a bankruptcy attorney by contacting your local or state bar association. Once you have a referral, call up the attorney and schedule a consultation. Ask how much the fee will be.

Your attorney can help you think through which bankruptcy to file—or whether a different alternative would be best.

3. Consider alternatives to bankruptcy. Your spouse should consider other options. These options might be better because they will impact your spouse's credit score less severely. Also, you don't jeopardize losing property. Common alternatives include.

Get a debt consolidation loan. Sometimes you can get a low-interest loan which you use to pay off all debts. You then have one payment to make.

Transfer debts to low interest credit cards. Many credit cards give 12-month grace periods for balance transfers. Interest doesn't accrue until the grace period ends.

Create a repayment plan with your creditors. They might be willing to work with you, especially if you mention that you are thinking of filing for bankruptcy. In bankruptcy, unsecured creditors rarely get paid back 100% of what they are owed. For this reason, they may be willing to reduce the interest rate or extend payments over a long period of time so that you don't file for bankruptcy.

Use a credit counselor. Credit counseling services can help you negotiate with creditors and then consolidate debt. These counselors also help you come up with repayment plans you can afford.



Question : If my wife files bankruptcy, what happens to our jointly-owned house? How does this affect my loan on the house?

Answer : In a bankruptcy, all your debts are listed against all your assets. If your wife does not have sufficient assets to pay for her debts, then her half of the house can be seized. It can either be transferred as an asset to a creditor, or (forcibly) liquidated. But if the bank sells your house, you have to get your share. I.e. only her share can be seized. For a detailed calculation, contact an accountant.
February 25, 2020


How to Protect Your Finances when Your Spouse Files for Bankruptcy.


When your spouse files for bankruptcy, the bankruptcy should not affect your credit score. However, you may still be affected in other ways. For example, you will still have to pay off joint debts. Also, the bankruptcy trustee can seize any property your spouse owns, even if you are a joint owner. Accordingly, you and your spouse should carefully consider which bankruptcy is best for the family or whether you should pursue a non-bankruptcy option.



Part 1 Identifying Joint and Separate Property.

1. Identify all property you and your spouse own. When your spouse files for bankruptcy, they will have to list all of their property on a schedule and report it. The trustee uses this information to determine the size of the bankruptcy estate. This information is important because the trustee may be able to force your spouse to sell property in order to pay their creditors. The less property your spouse owns, the better off they will be.

Go through your possessions and estimate how much the property is worth. Also figure out who owns it.

As a spouse, you want to be on the lookout for property you jointly own with your spouse. Unless this property is exempt, it goes into your spouse's estate, which means you might lose it depending on the bankruptcy your spouse files.

2. Check if you live in a community property state. The ownership of certain property may depend on the state where you are living. Some states are “community property” states, and this means that any property you or your spouse acquired during the marriage is owned equally by both of you.

For example, you might have bought a car. In a community property state, the car is generally considered the property of both you and your spouse—regardless of whether your spouse is on the title.

The following are community property states: Arizona, California, Idaho, Louisiana, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Washington, and Wisconsin. Community property laws also apply in some situations in Alaska.

Because community property laws differ, you should work closely with a lawyer in your state to identify all property that will be counted as part of the bankruptcy estate.

3. Determine ownership in a common law state. If you don't live in a community property state, then you live in a common law state. In common law states, the owner is generally the person whose name is on the title. If your name alone appears on the title, then the asset probably will not be included in the bankruptcy estate.

If both names are on the title, then you and your spouse both own half of the asset and the asset will have to be listed as part of the bankruptcy estate.

The trustee might be able to force a sale of the asset if they can convince the judge that the benefit of selling the asset outweighs any detriment you will face. However, the trustee will still have to pay you the full-value of your half of the asset. The trustee can only use the portion your bankrupt spouse owned to pay their creditors.

4. Check if you own your home in “tenancy by the entirety.” This is a form of ownership in which the asset is owned by the marriage. Many couples own their home in tenancy by the entirety. Depending on your state, assets owned in this manner are exempted from the bankruptcy estate.

5. Identify bankruptcy exemptions. You can exempt property from being counted as part of your spouse's estate. Each state has bankruptcy exemptions which you can use. The federal government also has a list of exemptions. In some states, you can choose between the state or federal exemptions, whereas other states will require that you use the state exemptions.

In Missouri, for example, you can exempt up to $15,000 in a home that you live in or up to $5,000 in a mobile home. You can also exempt up to $3,000 in a motor vehicle.

Say you and your spouse jointly own a car in Missouri. If the car is worth $16,000, then your spouse has $8,000 in the car. Only $3,000 is exempt. Accordingly, the trustee might want to sell the car and use the $5,000 to pay off creditors. If the trustee sells the car, they must pay the spouse who didn't file for bankruptcy $8,000.

In some states, you can double an exemption if you file a joint bankruptcy petition so long as you both own the property. For example, if the state allows you to exempt $3,000 in a car, then you can exempt $6,000 if you and your spouse own it together.

6. Avoid transferring property. You might think you can protect your assets by having your spouse transfer them before filing for bankruptcy. If you live in a common law state, you might think you can make the transfer into your name so that you hold title to all of the family property and your spouse holds only the debts individually. Unfortunately, this tactic won't work.

Instead, your spouse must report all transfers. If your spouse transferred the property during the two years before they filed for bankruptcy, then the trustee can get the property back.

Your spouse will also get in trouble if they try to hide the transfer. Everyone files a bankruptcy petition under penalty of perjury. If caught lying, your spouse could be prosecuted and have the entire bankruptcy cancelled.



Part 2 Handling Joint Debts.

1. Identify your joint debts. You and your spouse might have joint debts. This means that you both have agreed to be 100% responsible for the full debt. Accordingly, if your spouse files for bankruptcy, you are not relieved of your responsibility for the debt. Although your spouse will have their obligation discharged, your obligation will not be. You will still remain responsible for the entire amount. Joint debts can be formed in the following ways.

You and your spouse took out the debt together.

You cosigned on a loan for your spouse.

You live in a community property state and you or your spouse took out a debt during the marriage.

2. Continue to make payments on your joint debts. If you have a joint debt—say, for your car—then you must continue to make payments on it, even if you are the spouse who didn't file for bankruptcy. If you stop, then your credit score will take a hit because your missed payments will be reported to the credit reporting agencies.

3. Consider filing a joint bankruptcy petition. You have the option of filing for bankruptcy along with your spouse. By doing so, you can discharge joint debts.[12] After a discharge, neither you nor your spouse is responsible for the joint debt.

Of course, a bankruptcy stays on your credit report for several years, and neither you nor your spouse will probably be able to secure new credit in the near future.

Nevertheless, a joint bankruptcy can be an excellent option if you have high joint debts which you have no way of paying off in the future. A joint bankruptcy can free you and your spouse of these crushing joint debts.



Part 3 Choosing the Right Bankruptcy.

1. Identify the different types of bankruptcy. U.S. law provides many different types of bankruptcies, but the two most common for individuals are Chapter 7 and Chapter 13. You should analyze which is best for you, depending on your circumstances.

Chapter 7. This is called a “liquidation” bankruptcy. In a Chapter 7, your spouse can wipe out all of their debts. However, in order to get that benefit, they generally must sell non-exempt property and use the proceeds to pay their creditors.

Chapter 13. In a Chapter 13, the debtor gets to keep their property. Instead of selling it, they will pay back creditors for three to five years. At the end of the repayment period, any remaining unsecured debts (like credit cards) will be forgiven. Chapter 13 is a good option if you have a lot of non-exempt property that is jointly owned.

Joint bankruptcy petition. A joint bankruptcy petition may be the best option if you and your spouse have large joint debts. You can file both Chapter 7 and 13 jointly.

2. Meet with an attorney. Only a qualified bankruptcy attorney can analyze your situation and identify the best course of action. You should get a referral to a bankruptcy attorney by contacting your local or state bar association. Once you have a referral, call up the attorney and schedule a consultation. Ask how much the fee will be.

Your attorney can help you think through which bankruptcy to file—or whether a different alternative would be best.

3. Consider alternatives to bankruptcy. Your spouse should consider other options. These options might be better because they will impact your spouse's credit score less severely. Also, you don't jeopardize losing property. Common alternatives include.

Get a debt consolidation loan. Sometimes you can get a low-interest loan which you use to pay off all debts. You then have one payment to make.

Transfer debts to low interest credit cards. Many credit cards give 12-month grace periods for balance transfers. Interest doesn't accrue until the grace period ends.

Create a repayment plan with your creditors. They might be willing to work with you, especially if you mention that you are thinking of filing for bankruptcy. In bankruptcy, unsecured creditors rarely get paid back 100% of what they are owed. For this reason, they may be willing to reduce the interest rate or extend payments over a long period of time so that you don't file for bankruptcy.

Use a credit counselor. Credit counseling services can help you negotiate with creditors and then consolidate debt. These counselors also help you come up with repayment plans you can afford.



Question : If my wife files bankruptcy, what happens to our jointly-owned house? How does this affect my loan on the house?

Answer : In a bankruptcy, all your debts are listed against all your assets. If your wife does not have sufficient assets to pay for her debts, then her half of the house can be seized. It can either be transferred as an asset to a creditor, or (forcibly) liquidated. But if the bank sells your house, you have to get your share. I.e. only her share can be seized. For a detailed calculation, contact an accountant.
February 17, 2020


How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.
December 19, 2019


How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.
December 19, 2019