How to Easy Finance a Car

How to Easy Finance a Car.

You’ve found the car of your dreams. Now what do you do? How do you get the money for it? When an individual decides to buy a new or used car, he or she often needs to finance part of or all of the vehicle’s price. Because cars are such a big purchase, many buyers can't provide cash down for the vehicle, so they choose to finance a car over a period of time. There are two financing routes you can choose to go down — either getting a direct or a dealer loan. Before you choose to finance your next vehicle, you should do your homework to ensure that you get the best deal.


Method 1 Doing Your Homework.

Find out how much you can afford up front. If you know the ballpark value of what you want to pay for a vehicle, and how much you can afford to pay in cash, you will know about how much you will need to finance.

Maximize your down payment. A smart way to finance a car is to get as much of a down payment as you can. The more you can pay at the beginning of a deal, the less you will have to pay in interest. Even if you have to temporarily sell some assets to buy the car outright, that can be a better deal than financing a major portion of the cost.

Know your credit score. Much of the financing offer for a car is based on your credit score. Those with good credit will get better interest rates and cheaper car financing offers. This is important no matter who you finance your vehicle through.

Find out your credit score either through the dealer or online at websites like www.annualcreditreport.com, www.freecreditscore.com, www.creditkarma.com, or www.myfico.com.

If your credit score is higher than 680, you are considered a prime borrower and are eligible for the best interest rates available. The higher your score, the better bargaining position you will be in.

Compare loan rates online. There are many websites that compare deals at no cost. Additionally, it is a great way to get in contact with various companies.

Get the necessary materials together. Most lenders will want your name, social security number, date of birth, previous and current addresses, occupation, proof of income, and information on other outstanding debts.


Method 2 Getting a Direct Loan.

Contact certified lenders. Local and national banks, as well as credit unions can give you the terms and interest rates they are offering on used car loans over the phone and online. Shop around and find the best rate for you. You don't have to apply for financing through the dealer, though you certainly can. Oftentimes you can get a fairer deal when you figure out your financing first before you walk into the dealership. Apply for financing through a bank or an app that connects you to lenders.

Oftentimes, credit unions have the lowest interest rates, especially if you are a member. Check with your employer to see if they have any connections with local credit unions for you to take advantage of.

Many lenders offer 5 year loans on vehicles that are five years old at most. Older vehicles are often only eligible for 1 to 2 year loans. In many cases, the fear is that an older car will break down and then borrowers will default on their loans.

Additionally, lenders often impose mileage restrictions (often 100,000 miles) and will not finance salvage-titled vehicles. Typically, they will only fund loans for vehicles purchased through a franchised dealership, not through a private party or independent dealer. In these cases, you’ll have to get a deal loan. See below.

Solicit rate quotes from several lenders. The interest rates offered on used car loans are generally 4 to 6 percent higher than rates offered on new car loans. This is because lenders are fearful of financing used vehicles.

Be as specific as possible with a lender. Provide the lender with information about the vehicle you choose. You will need to provide the car's make, model and VIN number, among other things. The more detail you can give the lender, the more firm your rate quote will be.

Talk to lenders about any fees or extra charges. Some lenders offer low interest rates and make back the money by tacking on additional fees and charges to a loan deal. You'll want to know about these, as well as any other specific loan agreement aspects like prepayment penalties, which can trigger fees if you pay the loan off early.

Get prequalified. Fill out the paperwork ahead of time. Many banks or lenders will pre-qualify you for a car loan based on your credit score, the type of car you plan on purchasing, and your driving history.

Ask the lender with the best rate offer for a pre-qualification letter. It should outline the terms and conditions of the loan. Bring this letter with you to the dealership when shopping for the car. When you go to the dealer's lot, you can show them evidence pre-qualification from a reputable lender. This will expedite the car buying experience. It will also tell the car dealer you are ready to buy.

If you haven’t prequalified, you can get financing at the dealer's lot for a one-stop shopping experience, but having other lender alternatives helps you to get the best deal.


Method 3 Getting a Dealer Loan.

Get a loan through a new or used car dealer.

In general, interest rates offered by dealerships are higher than interest rates you can find directly from a lender. In many cases, smaller dealerships work with third party lenders to finance your vehicle. Because they play the middleman, they pass off the costs to you. Therefore, you may want to apply for a direct loan first and cut out the dealership middleman.

In some cases, financing lenders like local banks and credit unions won’t take a chance on used cars. For used cars, most dealers will finance used cars they sell, regardless of its age. Therefore, you may want to apply for a dealer loan if a direct lender denies you financing.

Bring leverage. Bring interest rates from direct loan lenders, even if you plan on financing with the dealer. Dealers are more likely to offer lower interest rates, if you show them that you know what other lenders are offering. Make sure you research competitive interest rates based on your credit score.

Offer a down payment in cash or trade equivalent to at least 10% of the vehicle's purchase price. The larger the down payment, the less money you will have to finance and the less interest you’ll have to pay on that loan.

Tips.

If you have a low credit score, consider asking someone with a high credit score to co-sign on a loan. A co-signor with a high credit score may help you to secure a lower-interest loan.

If your loan application gets rejected, don’t feel bad. Most likely, the lender doesn’t think you are able to pay back the loan on time. Reassess your budget and try again or try a different lender.

Warnings.

If you finance a used car, be prepared to pay for comprehensive insurance on the vehicle, which is more expensive than collision insurance commonly applied to used cars. Lenders require that you carry comprehensive insurance to protect their investment. Lenders often fear that if you damage the car, you will default on the loan, so they make you take out better insurance.

Be wary of dealers who advertise financing with "no credit check." Typically, these car lots sell high-mileage vehicles with inflated down payments and interest rates.

November 22, 2019

how to easy finance a car

How to Easy Finance a Car.

You’ve found the car of your dreams. Now what do you do? How do you get the money for it? When an individual decides to buy a new or used car, he or she often needs to finance part of or all of the vehicle’s price. Because cars are such a big purchase, many buyers can't provide cash down for the vehicle, so they choose to finance a car over a period of time. There are two financing routes you can choose to go down — either getting a direct or a dealer loan. Before you choose to finance your next vehicle, you should do your homework to ensure that you get the best deal.







Method 1 Doing Your Homework.



Find out how much you can afford up front. If you know the ballpark value of what you want to pay for a vehicle, and how much you can afford to pay in cash, you will know about how much you will need to finance.

Maximize your down payment. A smart way to finance a car is to get as much of a down payment as you can. The more you can pay at the beginning of a deal, the less you will have to pay in interest. Even if you have to temporarily sell some assets to buy the car outright, that can be a better deal than financing a major portion of the cost.



Know your credit score. Much of the financing offer for a car is based on your credit score. Those with good credit will get better interest rates and cheaper car financing offers. This is important no matter who you finance your vehicle through.

Find out your credit score either through the dealer or online at websites like www.annualcreditreport.com, www.freecreditscore.com, www.creditkarma.com, or www.myfico.com.

If your credit score is higher than 680, you are considered a prime borrower and are eligible for the best interest rates available. The higher your score, the better bargaining position you will be in.



Compare loan rates online. There are many websites that compare deals at no cost. Additionally, it is a great way to get in contact with various companies.



Get the necessary materials together. Most lenders will want your name, social security number, date of birth, previous and current addresses, occupation, proof of income, and information on other outstanding debts.









Method 2 Getting a Direct Loan.



Contact certified lenders. Local and national banks, as well as credit unions can give you the terms and interest rates they are offering on used car loans over the phone and online. Shop around and find the best rate for you. You don't have to apply for financing through the dealer, though you certainly can. Oftentimes you can get a fairer deal when you figure out your financing first before you walk into the dealership. Apply for financing through a bank or an app that connects you to lenders.

Oftentimes, credit unions have the lowest interest rates, especially if you are a member. Check with your employer to see if they have any connections with local credit unions for you to take advantage of.

Many lenders offer 5 year loans on vehicles that are five years old at most. Older vehicles are often only eligible for 1 to 2 year loans. In many cases, the fear is that an older car will break down and then borrowers will default on their loans.

Additionally, lenders often impose mileage restrictions (often 100,000 miles) and will not finance salvage-titled vehicles. Typically, they will only fund loans for vehicles purchased through a franchised dealership, not through a private party or independent dealer. In these cases, you’ll have to get a deal loan. See below.



Solicit rate quotes from several lenders. The interest rates offered on used car loans are generally 4 to 6 percent higher than rates offered on new car loans. This is because lenders are fearful of financing used vehicles.

Be as specific as possible with a lender. Provide the lender with information about the vehicle you choose. You will need to provide the car's make, model and VIN number, among other things. The more detail you can give the lender, the more firm your rate quote will be.

Talk to lenders about any fees or extra charges. Some lenders offer low interest rates and make back the money by tacking on additional fees and charges to a loan deal. You'll want to know about these, as well as any other specific loan agreement aspects like prepayment penalties, which can trigger fees if you pay the loan off early.



Get prequalified. Fill out the paperwork ahead of time. Many banks or lenders will pre-qualify you for a car loan based on your credit score, the type of car you plan on purchasing, and your driving history.



Ask the lender with the best rate offer for a pre-qualification letter. It should outline the terms and conditions of the loan. Bring this letter with you to the dealership when shopping for the car. When you go to the dealer's lot, you can show them evidence pre-qualification from a reputable lender. This will expedite the car buying experience. It will also tell the car dealer you are ready to buy.

If you haven’t prequalified, you can get financing at the dealer's lot for a one-stop shopping experience, but having other lender alternatives helps you to get the best deal.







Method 3 Getting a Dealer Loan.



Get a loan through a new or used car dealer.

In general, interest rates offered by dealerships are higher than interest rates you can find directly from a lender. In many cases, smaller dealerships work with third party lenders to finance your vehicle. Because they play the middleman, they pass off the costs to you. Therefore, you may want to apply for a direct loan first and cut out the dealership middleman.

In some cases, financing lenders like local banks and credit unions won’t take a chance on used cars. For used cars, most dealers will finance used cars they sell, regardless of its age. Therefore, you may want to apply for a dealer loan if a direct lender denies you financing.



Bring leverage. Bring interest rates from direct loan lenders, even if you plan on financing with the dealer. Dealers are more likely to offer lower interest rates, if you show them that you know what other lenders are offering. Make sure you research competitive interest rates based on your credit score.



Offer a down payment in cash or trade equivalent to at least 10% of the vehicle's purchase price. The larger the down payment, the less money you will have to finance and the less interest you’ll have to pay on that loan.





Tips.

If you have a low credit score, consider asking someone with a high credit score to co-sign on a loan. A co-signor with a high credit score may help you to secure a lower-interest loan.

If your loan application gets rejected, don’t feel bad. Most likely, the lender doesn’t think you are able to pay back the loan on time. Reassess your budget and try again or try a different lender.

Warnings.

If you finance a used car, be prepared to pay for comprehensive insurance on the vehicle, which is more expensive than collision insurance commonly applied to used cars. Lenders require that you carry comprehensive insurance to protect their investment. Lenders often fear that if you damage the car, you will default on the loan, so they make you take out better insurance.

Be wary of dealers who advertise financing with "no credit check." Typically, these car lots sell high-mileage vehicles with inflated down payments and interest rates.

November 17, 2019

how to calculate finance charges on a leased vehicle

How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.

December 19, 2019

How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle

How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.

December 19, 2019

How to Finance a Used Car

How to Finance a Used Car.

If you need a car and can't afford to buy one with cash, financing is always an option. If you want to finance a used car, you have the choice of getting your own direct financing, or having the dealer obtain financing for you. If you have a low credit score, "Buy Here Pay Here" lots may be your only option, but should only be used as a last resort.


Method 1 Getting a Direct Loan.

1. Request a copy of your credit report. Knowing your credit score will give you a good idea of what kind of rates and terms you'll potentially be offered. In the United States, you're entitled to one free copy of your credit report every year.

Check your report for errors or inaccuracies that could be affecting your credit score.

If you have a credit score of 680 or above, you're a prime borrower and should be able to get the best possible rates. The higher your score, the lower the rate you can potentially negotiate with lenders.

2. Contact local banks and credit unions. If you have had a credit or savings account with the same bank for a number of years, start there when looking for a direct car loan. Your history as a customer may get you better rates.

Branch out to other banks in your area. Credit unions often have more forgiving loan terms and fewer restrictions.

Banks typically won't do a direct car loan for a car purchased from a private owner or an independent dealership. In those situations, you may need to try to take out a personal loan. This is also true if you're buying a collector or exotic car.

3. Try online lenders. If you're not a prime borrower, it's still possible to get a direct loan for a used car. There are a number of online lenders who are willing to finance used cars for people with less than stellar credit.

Since online lenders have less overhead, they typically will offer you a lower rate than you could get from a brick-and-mortar bank or credit union.

These loans may come with more restrictions than the direct loan you could get from a bank with better credit. For example, they may not finance cars more than five years old, or cars with over 100,000 miles.

4. Get rates from multiple lenders. Before you choose a loan, apply for several so you can compare the rates offered. Many banks and lending companies have a pre-approval process that won't affect your credit.

Multiple offers may give you the opportunity to negotiate for a better deal. For example, if you got a better rate from a different bank than from your own bank, you could get your bank to match that rate to get your business.

5. Complete a loan application. Once you've decided which lender you want to use for your financing, you'll typically have to fill out a full loan application. Many lenders give you the option to complete the application online.

You'll need to provide basic identification information, such as your driver's license and Social Security numbers. You also may need to provide basic financial information regarding your income and debts.

If you've had some credit problems in the past, you may want to go into a bank and apply for the loan in person so you can talk to a lending agent.

Your loan agreement will include basic requirements that the car must meet. As long as the car meets these requirements, you can use the financing to purchase the car.

6. Negotiate with the dealer. In most cases, you're going to secure direct or "blank check" financing before you find the specific car you want to buy. Having financing already secured puts you in a stronger position to get the best price from the dealer.

When you bring your own financing, you're saving the dealer a lot of costs. Ask if there's a discount available for that.

Since you're buying a used car, have it inspected before you buy it and go over the car's history. The car is a better buy if it's had fewer owners and never been in an accident.

7. Give the dealer your blank check. Lender policies vary, but in most cases you'll get a check for the exact amount of your car, or a blank check that's worth any amount up to the maximum amount your lender has approved.

When you buy a car using direct financing, you still must maintain full coverage insurance on the car. Your loan agreement will include information on the minimum amounts of coverage you must maintain.


Method 2 Using Dealer Financing.

1. Research interest rates. Dealers have special financing offers available throughout the year. Especially if you're not picky about the make or model of your car, shop around and see who has the best deal.

Know your credit score and how qualified you are for different offers. Typically the best offers are only available for prime borrowers with credit in the 700s or higher.

If you're trading in an old car, look for dealer offers to double the price on a trade-in, or pay a minimum amount for any trade-in regardless of its condition.

2. Choose your car. If you've done your research, you have a few dealerships in mind. You should be able to evaluate their inventory online before you go visit in person. Find the best car for you, looking at overall price.

Dealers may advertise monthly payment amounts rather than total price. This can be a way to charge you a higher interest rate.

Dealers typically will finance any car on their lot, so you may have more variety to choose from if you use dealer financing than you would if you used direct financing. However, this might not necessarily be a good thing – you still need to check the car's history and have it inspected before you buy.

3. Offer a sizable down payment. Cars depreciate in value. If you're buying a used car, you want to finance as little of the total price of the car as possible. A down payment of 10 to 20 percent of the purchase price of the car typically will get you the best rates.

A sizable down payment can help you avoid being underwater on your loan – meaning you owe more for the car than it is worth. This is particularly important to avoid when you're financing a used car, which could develop mechanical problems relatively quickly.

4. Apply for financing through the dealer. You'll need basic identification information as well as information about your income and employment to complete the financing application at the dealership.

It may take a few minutes, but in most cases the dealer will have a financing offer available for you that day. Then they'll call you back into an office to discuss the terms you've been offered.

The finance company may require additional documents from you, such as pay stubs to verify income. If the dealer mentions any of these, make sure you get copies to the dealer as soon as possible so as not to jeopardize your financing offer.

5. Negotiate the deal. If you've done your research and know your credit score, you may be able to get better terms from the dealer than what you're initially offered. Review each term and see if you can improve it.

For example, you typically want the shortest term loan, since it will usually have the lowest interest rates. But dealers often focus on the amount of the monthly payment. Financing for a shorter term does mean a higher monthly payment, but it will save you money overall.

6. Use cash for extras. Dealers tend to tack on extra fees, including sales tax, registration fees, and document or destination fees. You also may end up paying extra for dealer warranties, especially for a used car.

The dealer typically has no problem rolling these extra fees into your financing, but there's no point in paying interest on fees and tax. Pay that out of pocket if you can.


Method 3 Using "Buy Here Pay Here" Financing

1. Exhaust all other options. If you need a car and have had credit problems or have an extremely low credit score, BHPH financing is available for you. However, due to the high rates you should consider this only as a last resort.

There are some franchised dealerships, particularly Ford and Chevy dealerships, who are willing to work with customers who have bad credit. It may be possible for you to get a loan there. It wouldn't be the best rates, but it you would still pay less than you would at a BHPH lot.

If you have a relative with a good credit score, you might find out if they are willing to co-sign on the loan with you. That could get you a better rate or make traditional lenders more willing to work with you. This option can be especially valuable if you're young and don't have much, if any, credit history.

2. Ask if the dealer reports to credit bureaus. Because BHPH lots finance the car themselves, they don't always report to credit bureaus. If you have bad credit or no credit, you want the payments you make for your car reported so you can start to rebuild your credit.

You may have to visit several lots before you find one that reports to credit bureaus, but be persistent.

3. Research the car thoroughly. Any car you buy from a BHPH lot typically is sold "as is." Some of these cars may have mechanical problems, and the lot may not be required to disclose those problems before you buy the car.

Demand a Carfax or similar car history report so you can see how many owners the car has had and whether it's been in an accident. These lots typically have older cars, so they've likely had several owners – but a car that's changed hands several times in the past few years may be a red flag.

Take the car to a reputable mechanic before you buy it and have them conduct a thorough inspection. If there are any major repairs that need to be made, you may be able to convince the lot to make those repairs before you purchase the car.

4. Negotiate with the dealer. BHPH dealers often present the price of a car – and the financing terms – as though they are non-negotiable, but that's typically not true. Even though you may not be in the best bargaining position, you can still try to get a better deal.

The more of a down payment you can make, the better your terms typically will be. These lots often specialize in low down payments, but that doesn't mean you can't pay more.

If you're buying a car at a BHPH lot, your down payment should be as high as possible to keep you from ending up underwater – try to aim for somewhere between 40 and 60 percent down.

5.
Make your payments on time. You typically won't have to make payments for a long term, but it's essential to make every payment on time if you want to rebuild your credit. Some BHPH lots will repossess a car after as few as one missed payment.

Some BHPH lots require you to make a trip to the lot with your payment. Depending on how the financing is structured, you may be required to make weekly or bi-monthly payments. If you have a checking account and the lot offers automatic payments, sign up for them so you won't have to worry about it.

At most BHPH lots, you won't pay any less if you pay the loan off early. Ask about this when you buy the car. If the lot is reporting to the credit bureau and you won't save any money by paying the loan off early, just keep making the payments on time. All those payments will reflect well on your credit score.

November 22, 2019

How to Use the Rule of 72

How to Use the Rule of 72.

The Rule of 72 is a handy tool used in finance to estimate the number of years it would take to double a sum of money through interest payments, given a particular interest rate. The rule can also estimate the annual interest rate required to double a sum of money in a specified number of years. The rule states that the interest rate multiplied by the time period required to double an amount of money is approximately equal to 72.
The Rule of 72 is applicable in cases of exponential growth, (as in compound interest) or in exponential "decay," as in the loss of purchasing power caused by monetary inflation.

Method 1 Estimating "Doubling" Time.
1. Let R x T = 72. R is the rate of growth (the annual interest rate), and T is the time (in years) it takes for the amount of money to double.
2. Insert a value for R. For example, how long does it take to turn $100 into $200 at a yearly interest rate of 5%? Letting R = 5, we get 5 x T = 72.
3. Solve for the unknown variable. In this example, divide both sides of the above equation by R (that is, 5) to get T = 72 ÷ 5 = 14.4. So it takes 14.4 years for $100 to double at an interest rate of 5% per annum. (The initial amount of money doesn't matter. It will take the same amount of time to double no matter what the beginning amount is.)
4. Study these additional examples:
How long does it take to double an amount of money at a rate of 10% per annum? 10 x T = 72. Divide both sides of the equation by 10, so that T = 7.2 years.
How long does it take to turn $100 into $1600 at a rate of 7.2% per annum? Recognize that 100 must double four times to reach 1600 ($100 → $200, $200 → $400, $400 → $800, $800 → $1600). For each doubling, 7.2 x T = 72, so T = 10. So, as each doubling takes ten years, the total time required (to change $100 into $1,600) is 40 years.

Method 2 Estimating the Growth Rate.
1. Let R x T = 72. R is the rate of growth (the interest rate), and T is the time (in years) it takes to double any amount of money.
2. Enter the value of T. For example, let's say you want to double your money in ten years. What interest rate would you need in order to do that? Enter 10 for T in the equation. R x 10 = 72.
3. Solve for R. Divide both sides by 10 to get R = 72 ÷ 10 = 7.2. So you will need an annual interest rate of 7.2% in order to double your money in ten years.

Method 3 Estimating Exponential "Decay" (Loss).
1. Estimate the time it would take to lose half of your money (or its purchasing power in the wake of inflation). Let T = 72 ÷ R. This is the same equation as above, just slightly rearranged. Now enter a value for R. An example.
How long will it take for $100 to assume the purchasing power of $50, given an inflation rate of 5% per year?
Let 5 x T = 72, so that T = 72 ÷ 5 = 14.4. That's how many years it would take for money to lose half its buying power in a period of 5% inflation. (If the inflation rate were to change from year to year, you would have to use the average inflation rate that existed over the full time period.)
2. Estimate the rate of decay (R) over a given time span: R = 72 ÷ T. Enter a value for T, and solve for R. For example.
If the buying power of $100 becomes $50 in ten years, what is the inflation rate during that time?
R x 10 = 72, where T = 10. Then R = 72 ÷ 10 = 7.2%.
3. Ignore any unusual data. If you can detect a general trend, don't worry about temporary numbers that are wildly out of range. Drop them from consideration.

Method 4 Derivation.
1. Understand how the derivation works for periodic compounding.
For periodic compounding, FV = PV (1 + r)^T, where FV = future value, PV = present value, r = growth rate, T = time.
If money has doubled, FV = 2*PV, so 2PV = PV (1 + r)^T, or 2 = (1 + r)^T, assuming the present value is not zero.
Solve for T by taking the natural logs on both sides, and rearranging, to get T = ln(2) / ln(1 + r).
The Taylor series for ln(1 + r) around 0 is r - r2/2 + r3/3 - ... For low values of r, the contributions from the higher power terms are small, and the expression approximates r, so that t = ln(2) / r.
Note that ln(2) ~ 0.693, so that T ~ 0.693 / r (or T = 69.3 / R, expressing the interest rate as a percentage R from 0-100%), which is the rule of 69.3. Other numbers such as 69, 70, and 72 are used for easier calculations.
2. Understand how the derivation works for continuous compounding. For periodic compounding with multiple compounding per year, the future value is given by FV = PV (1 + r/n)^nT, where FV = future value, PV = present value, r = growth rate, T = time, and n = number of compounding periods per year. For continuous compounding, n approaches infinity. Using the definition of e = lim (1 + 1/n)^n as n approaches infinity, the expression becomes FV = PV e^(rT).
If money has doubled, FV = 2*PV, so 2PV = PV e^(rT), or 2 = e^(rT), assuming the present value is not zero.
Solve for T by taking natural logs on both sides, and rearranging, to get T = ln(2)/r = 69.3/R (where R = 100r to express the growth rate as a percentage). This is the rule of 69.3.
For continuous compounding, 69.3 (or approximately 69) gives more accurate results, since ln(2) is approximately 69.3%, and R * T = ln(2), where R = growth (or decay) rate, T = the doubling (or halving) time, and ln(2) is the natural log of 2. 70 may also be used as an approximation for continuous or daily (which is close to continuous) compounding, for ease of calculation. These variations are known as rule of 69.3, rule of 69, or rule of 70.
A similar accuracy adjustment for the rule of 69.3 is used for high rates with daily compounding: T = (69.3 + R/3) / R.
The Eckart-McHale second order rule, or E-M rule, gives a multiplicative correction to the Rule of 69.3 or 70 (but not 72), for better accuracy for higher interest rate ranges. To compute the E-M approximation, multiply the Rule of 69.3 (or 70) result by 200/(200-R), i.e., T = (69.3/R) * (200/(200-R)). For example, if the interest rate is 18%, the Rule of 69.3 says t = 3.85 years. The E-M Rule multiplies this by 200/(200-18), giving a doubling time of 4.23 years, which better approximates the actual doubling time 4.19 years at this rate.
The third-order Padé approximant gives even better approximation, using the correction factor (600 + 4R) / (600 + R), i.e., T = (69.3/R) * ((600 + 4R) / (600 + R)). If the interest rate is 18%, the third-order Padé approximant gives T = 4.19 years.
To estimate doubling time for higher rates, adjust 72 by adding 1 for every 3 percentages greater than 8%. That is, T = [72 + (R - 8%)/3] / R. For example, if the interest rate is 32%, the time it takes to double a given amount of money is T = [72 + (32 - 8)/3] / 32 = 2.5 years. Note that 80 is used here instead of 72, which would have given 2.25 years for the doubling time.


FAQ.
Question : When would I need to use the rule of 72?
Answer : It's a handy shortcut when considering compounded, monetary gains or losses. For example, you might want to know how long it would take for invested money to double in value, given a specific rate of interest.
Question : How do I calculate compound interest?
Answer : The formula for annual compound interest (A) is: P [1 + (r / n)]^(nt), where P=principal amount, r = the annual interest rate as a decimal, n = the number of times the interest is compounded per year, and t = the number of years of the loan or investment.
Question : What is APY for an APR of 3.5% compounded?
Answer : It depends on how often the interest compounds: annually, semi-annually, quarterly, monthly or daily.

Tips.

Let the Rule of 72 work for you by starting to save now. At a growth rate of 8% a year (the approximate rate of return in the stock market), you would double your money in nine years (72 ÷ 8 = 9), quadruple your money in 18 years, and have 16 times your money in 36 years.
The value of 72 was chosen as a convenient numerator in the above equation. 72 is easily divisible by several small numbers: 1,2,3,4,6,8,9, and 12. It provides a good approximation for annual compounding at typical rates (from 6% to 10%). The approximations are less exact at higher interest rates.
You can use Felix's Corollary to the Rule of 72 to calculate the "future value" of an annuity (that is, what the annuity's face value will be at a specified future time). You can read about the corollary on various financial and investing websites.

Warnings.
Let the rule of 72 convince you not to take on high-interest debt (as is typical with credit cards). At an average interest rate of 18%, semiretired credit card debt doubles in just four years (72 ÷ 18 = 4), quadruples in eight years, and becomes completely unmanageable after that.

April 10, 2020

how to finance a used car

How to Finance a Used Car.

If you need a car and can't afford to buy one with cash, financing is always an option. If you want to finance a used car, you have the choice of getting your own direct financing, or having the dealer obtain financing for you. If you have a low credit score, "Buy Here Pay Here" lots may be your only option, but should only be used as a last resort.







Method 1 Getting a Direct Loan.



1. Request a copy of your credit report. Knowing your credit score will give you a good idea of what kind of rates and terms you'll potentially be offered. In the United States, you're entitled to one free copy of your credit report every year.

Check your report for errors or inaccuracies that could be affecting your credit score.

If you have a credit score of 680 or above, you're a prime borrower and should be able to get the best possible rates. The higher your score, the lower the rate you can potentially negotiate with lenders.



2. Contact local banks and credit unions. If you have had a credit or savings account with the same bank for a number of years, start there when looking for a direct car loan. Your history as a customer may get you better rates.

Branch out to other banks in your area. Credit unions often have more forgiving loan terms and fewer restrictions.

Banks typically won't do a direct car loan for a car purchased from a private owner or an independent dealership. In those situations, you may need to try to take out a personal loan. This is also true if you're buying a collector or exotic car.



3. Try online lenders. If you're not a prime borrower, it's still possible to get a direct loan for a used car. There are a number of online lenders who are willing to finance used cars for people with less than stellar credit.

Since online lenders have less overhead, they typically will offer you a lower rate than you could get from a brick-and-mortar bank or credit union.

These loans may come with more restrictions than the direct loan you could get from a bank with better credit. For example, they may not finance cars more than five years old, or cars with over 100,000 miles.



4. Get rates from multiple lenders. Before you choose a loan, apply for several so you can compare the rates offered. Many banks and lending companies have a pre-approval process that won't affect your credit.

Multiple offers may give you the opportunity to negotiate for a better deal. For example, if you got a better rate from a different bank than from your own bank, you could get your bank to match that rate to get your business.



5. Complete a loan application. Once you've decided which lender you want to use for your financing, you'll typically have to fill out a full loan application. Many lenders give you the option to complete the application online.

You'll need to provide basic identification information, such as your driver's license and Social Security numbers. You also may need to provide basic financial information regarding your income and debts.

If you've had some credit problems in the past, you may want to go into a bank and apply for the loan in person so you can talk to a lending agent.

Your loan agreement will include basic requirements that the car must meet. As long as the car meets these requirements, you can use the financing to purchase the car.



6. Negotiate with the dealer. In most cases, you're going to secure direct or "blank check" financing before you find the specific car you want to buy. Having financing already secured puts you in a stronger position to get the best price from the dealer.

When you bring your own financing, you're saving the dealer a lot of costs. Ask if there's a discount available for that.

Since you're buying a used car, have it inspected before you buy it and go over the car's history. The car is a better buy if it's had fewer owners and never been in an accident.



7. Give the dealer your blank check. Lender policies vary, but in most cases you'll get a check for the exact amount of your car, or a blank check that's worth any amount up to the maximum amount your lender has approved.

When you buy a car using direct financing, you still must maintain full coverage insurance on the car. Your loan agreement will include information on the minimum amounts of coverage you must maintain.







Method 2 Using Dealer Financing.



1. Research interest rates. Dealers have special financing offers available throughout the year. Especially if you're not picky about the make or model of your car, shop around and see who has the best deal.

Know your credit score and how qualified you are for different offers. Typically the best offers are only available for prime borrowers with credit in the 700s or higher.

If you're trading in an old car, look for dealer offers to double the price on a trade-in, or pay a minimum amount for any trade-in regardless of its condition.



2. Choose your car. If you've done your research, you have a few dealerships in mind. You should be able to evaluate their inventory online before you go visit in person. Find the best car for you, looking at overall price.

Dealers may advertise monthly payment amounts rather than total price. This can be a way to charge you a higher interest rate.

Dealers typically will finance any car on their lot, so you may have more variety to choose from if you use dealer financing than you would if you used direct financing. However, this might not necessarily be a good thing – you still need to check the car's history and have it inspected before you buy.



3. Offer a sizable down payment. Cars depreciate in value. If you're buying a used car, you want to finance as little of the total price of the car as possible. A down payment of 10 to 20 percent of the purchase price of the car typically will get you the best rates.

A sizable down payment can help you avoid being underwater on your loan – meaning you owe more for the car than it is worth. This is particularly important to avoid when you're financing a used car, which could develop mechanical problems relatively quickly.



4. Apply for financing through the dealer. You'll need basic identification information as well as information about your income and employment to complete the financing application at the dealership.

It may take a few minutes, but in most cases the dealer will have a financing offer available for you that day. Then they'll call you back into an office to discuss the terms you've been offered.

The finance company may require additional documents from you, such as pay stubs to verify income. If the dealer mentions any of these, make sure you get copies to the dealer as soon as possible so as not to jeopardize your financing offer.



5. Negotiate the deal. If you've done your research and know your credit score, you may be able to get better terms from the dealer than what you're initially offered. Review each term and see if you can improve it.

For example, you typically want the shortest term loan, since it will usually have the lowest interest rates. But dealers often focus on the amount of the monthly payment. Financing for a shorter term does mean a higher monthly payment, but it will save you money overall.



6. Use cash for extras. Dealers tend to tack on extra fees, including sales tax, registration fees, and document or destination fees. You also may end up paying extra for dealer warranties, especially for a used car.

The dealer typically has no problem rolling these extra fees into your financing, but there's no point in paying interest on fees and tax. Pay that out of pocket if you can.







Method 3 Using "Buy Here Pay Here" Financing



1. Exhaust all other options. If you need a car and have had credit problems or have an extremely low credit score, BHPH financing is available for you. However, due to the high rates you should consider this only as a last resort.

There are some franchised dealerships, particularly Ford and Chevy dealerships, who are willing to work with customers who have bad credit. It may be possible for you to get a loan there. It wouldn't be the best rates, but it you would still pay less than you would at a BHPH lot.

If you have a relative with a good credit score, you might find out if they are willing to co-sign on the loan with you. That could get you a better rate or make traditional lenders more willing to work with you. This option can be especially valuable if you're young and don't have much, if any, credit history.



2. Ask if the dealer reports to credit bureaus. Because BHPH lots finance the car themselves, they don't always report to credit bureaus. If you have bad credit or no credit, you want the payments you make for your car reported so you can start to rebuild your credit.

You may have to visit several lots before you find one that reports to credit bureaus, but be persistent.



3. Research the car thoroughly. Any car you buy from a BHPH lot typically is sold "as is." Some of these cars may have mechanical problems, and the lot may not be required to disclose those problems before you buy the car.

Demand a Carfax or similar car history report so you can see how many owners the car has had and whether it's been in an accident. These lots typically have older cars, so they've likely had several owners – but a car that's changed hands several times in the past few years may be a red flag.

Take the car to a reputable mechanic before you buy it and have them conduct a thorough inspection. If there are any major repairs that need to be made, you may be able to convince the lot to make those repairs before you purchase the car.



4. Negotiate with the dealer. BHPH dealers often present the price of a car – and the financing terms – as though they are non-negotiable, but that's typically not true. Even though you may not be in the best bargaining position, you can still try to get a better deal.

The more of a down payment you can make, the better your terms typically will be. These lots often specialize in low down payments, but that doesn't mean you can't pay more.

If you're buying a car at a BHPH lot, your down payment should be as high as possible to keep you from ending up underwater – try to aim for somewhere between 40 and 60 percent down.



5.

Make your payments on time. You typically won't have to make payments for a long term, but it's essential to make every payment on time if you want to rebuild your credit. Some BHPH lots will repossess a car after as few as one missed payment.

Some BHPH lots require you to make a trip to the lot with your payment. Depending on how the financing is structured, you may be required to make weekly or bi-monthly payments. If you have a checking account and the lot offers automatic payments, sign up for them so you won't have to worry about it.

At most BHPH lots, you won't pay any less if you pay the loan off early. Ask about this when you buy the car. If the lot is reporting to the credit bureau and you won't save any money by paying the loan off early, just keep making the payments on time. All those payments will reflect well on your credit score.

November 20, 2019

How to Avoid Finance Charges on Credit Cards

How to Avoid Finance Charges on Credit Cards.

If you are late paying off the balance of your credit card, you will likely incur further finance charges on the balance until it is paid. The best way to avoid these charges is to pay off the balance on time. You will often get a grace period of around 21 days after receiving the bill in which to do this. If you just pay off the minimum you will be incurring more and more interest and it will take you a long time to pay off the debt.

Method 1 Clearing Your Card Balance.

1. Pay off your balance at the end of every billing cycle. The most straight-forward way to avoid charges on the balance of your credit card is to pay it off in full at the end of each billing cycle. Paying off the whole balance by the due date on your bill will mean that you do not incur any additional finance charges on the balance.

Paying the balance of on time will also help your credit rating improve over time.

2. Determine if you have a grace period. Once you receive your bill, you will often have a grace period in which you can pay it off without incurring charges. These vary depending on what credit card deal you have, so you will have to check the details of your specific account. The typical grace period tends to be around 25 days.

If your card does have a grace period, your card provider must give you at least 21 days after your bill is mailed for you to pay it off.

3. Pay off the balance within your grace period. If your card has a grace period, you must pay off the balance in full before the end of this period to avoid any finance charges. If the grace period is 21 days, make sure you pay off the balance in advance of the due date. You can make the payment up to 5pm on the last day without incurring charges.

Make your payments in plenty of time so that you don’t accidentally miss the deadline.

If you mail your payment, allow 7 to 10 days for the payment to be applied to your account.

For online banking, check with your bank. It can be the same day, or it can take three working days. It’s best to be safe, so pay it off early if possible.

4. Consider transferring the balance to another card. If you are unable to pay off the balance within your grace period, there is an alternative way to clear the balance. You may be able to transfer the balance to another credit card, with a lower APR. For example, some cards will give you 0% APR for a limited time. In this specified period you will not have to pay any finance charges, so you will be able to pay the balance off more cheaply.

If you are considering this, it is important that you are careful and conscientious with your finances.

After the 0% APR period expires you may have to pay a higher rate of interest, so you should be completely sure of the terms and conditions.

If you transfer the balance from one card to another, remember that you have not paid off the debt. Don’t do this just to free up the card to take on more debt.

Method 2 Finding the Best Credit Card Deal.

1. Choose credit cards that do not charge annual service charges. There are numerous charges and fees connected to credit cards that you cannot avoid by paying off the balance on time. These include annual fees that are incurred regardless of how much you use the card. By shopping around you can find a card that doesn’t have these unavoidable service charges.

You can search through a database of hundreds of credit card agreements that are available from a variety of companies online.

The database is available on the website of the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau here: http://www.consumerfinance.gov/credit-cards/agreements/

2. Read the fine print. It’s important that you spend some time reading up on the all small print before you sign up for a credit card. Read it again before you activate a card, and call the company if you don't understand something. Be sure you know the interest rate and how finance charges are determined. Find out if there are ways for the lender to raise the interest rate, and if anything seems questionable, avoid working with that company.

Check to see what fees there are for balance transfers.

When you use the "checks" that arrive with your bill, these are considered balance transfers and are often subjected to additional fees.

3. Determine whether there is a universal default clause. When you are looking at different credit card agreements you should note whether or not they have a universal default clause. This type of clause gives the credit card company the right to raise the interest rate on your card if you are late paying your credit card bill or any other creditor. The credit card provider can monitor your credit report and alter your rates during the contract.

This clause can also be activated for a high debt-to-income ratio.

Remember that a higher interest rate or APR on your card results in high finance charges.

If you have a card with this clause, pay all your bills on time.

Question : I have never missed minimum due date, but still there is a finance charge. Is it because of the outstanding balance, or is the bank cheating me?
Answer : In all likelihood, the bank is not cheating you. If you fail to pay the full balance due before the due date, you will pay finance charges, which usually consist of interest on the unpaid balance.

Question : If the bank is closed on the first 3 days of month, can they charge the full month's interest when you were not able to contact them previous 3 days?
Answe : Yes. Some purchases compound interest monthly, and once the month has started, you could owe interest for the next 30 days. It's just like when you mail a check: it is credited on the day it is received, which would not be on a weekend or holiday.

Question : If my account has been closed but I still have a balance, can I avoid paying the finance charge?
Answer : You can try to negotiate with the credit card company for a payment plan that doesn't involve finance charges or a lump sum payoff but typically you will continue to pay interest as long as you have a balance.

Question : Do I get a personal loan on the basis of my credit card score?
Answer : A lender will consider your credit score as well as your credit history, work history and current income.

Question : If I pay total unbilled amount before due date, can I use my credit limit the next day?
Answer : You should wait until the card issuer has acknowledged receipt of your payment.

Question : If I paid all the outstanding balance, is there any finance charges?
Answer : It's possible there are finance charges left over from before you paid off the balance. If you pay off the full balance on time, there will be no further finance charges placed on your account after that point. If you keep paying the balance down to zero on time every month, you will not see any more finance charges.

Tips.

Check your credit report annually and correct any erroneous information. Some creditors use information obtained in credit reports to increase the finance charge percentage charged.

January 18, 2020

how to avoid finance charges on credit cards

How to Avoid Finance Charges on Credit Cards.

If you are late paying off the balance of your credit card, you will likely incur further finance charges on the balance until it is paid. The best way to avoid these charges is to pay off the balance on time. You will often get a grace period of around 21 days after receiving the bill in which to do this. If you just pay off the minimum you will be incurring more and more interest and it will take you a long time to pay off the debt.

Method 1 Clearing Your Card Balance.

1. Pay off your balance at the end of every billing cycle. The most straight-forward way to avoid charges on the balance of your credit card is to pay it off in full at the end of each billing cycle. Paying off the whole balance by the due date on your bill will mean that you do not incur any additional finance charges on the balance.

Paying the balance of on time will also help your credit rating improve over time.

2. Determine if you have a grace period. Once you receive your bill, you will often have a grace period in which you can pay it off without incurring charges. These vary depending on what credit card deal you have, so you will have to check the details of your specific account. The typical grace period tends to be around 25 days.

If your card does have a grace period, your card provider must give you at least 21 days after your bill is mailed for you to pay it off.

3. Pay off the balance within your grace period. If your card has a grace period, you must pay off the balance in full before the end of this period to avoid any finance charges. If the grace period is 21 days, make sure you pay off the balance in advance of the due date. You can make the payment up to 5pm on the last day without incurring charges.

Make your payments in plenty of time so that you don’t accidentally miss the deadline.

If you mail your payment, allow 7 to 10 days for the payment to be applied to your account.

For online banking, check with your bank. It can be the same day, or it can take three working days. It’s best to be safe, so pay it off early if possible.

4. Consider transferring the balance to another card. If you are unable to pay off the balance within your grace period, there is an alternative way to clear the balance. You may be able to transfer the balance to another credit card, with a lower APR. For example, some cards will give you 0% APR for a limited time. In this specified period you will not have to pay any finance charges, so you will be able to pay the balance off more cheaply.

If you are considering this, it is important that you are careful and conscientious with your finances.

After the 0% APR period expires you may have to pay a higher rate of interest, so you should be completely sure of the terms and conditions.

If you transfer the balance from one card to another, remember that you have not paid off the debt. Don’t do this just to free up the card to take on more debt.

Method 2 Finding the Best Credit Card Deal.

1. Choose credit cards that do not charge annual service charges. There are numerous charges and fees connected to credit cards that you cannot avoid by paying off the balance on time. These include annual fees that are incurred regardless of how much you use the card. By shopping around you can find a card that doesn’t have these unavoidable service charges.

You can search through a database of hundreds of credit card agreements that are available from a variety of companies online.

The database is available on the website of the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau here: http://www.consumerfinance.gov/credit-cards/agreements/

2. Read the fine print. It’s important that you spend some time reading up on the all small print before you sign up for a credit card. Read it again before you activate a card, and call the company if you don't understand something. Be sure you know the interest rate and how finance charges are determined. Find out if there are ways for the lender to raise the interest rate, and if anything seems questionable, avoid working with that company.

Check to see what fees there are for balance transfers.

When you use the "checks" that arrive with your bill, these are considered balance transfers and are often subjected to additional fees.

3. Determine whether there is a universal default clause. When you are looking at different credit card agreements you should note whether or not they have a universal default clause. This type of clause gives the credit card company the right to raise the interest rate on your card if you are late paying your credit card bill or any other creditor. The credit card provider can monitor your credit report and alter your rates during the contract.

This clause can also be activated for a high debt-to-income ratio.

Remember that a higher interest rate or APR on your card results in high finance charges.

If you have a card with this clause, pay all your bills on time.

Question : I have never missed minimum due date, but still there is a finance charge. Is it because of the outstanding balance, or is the bank cheating me?
Answer : In all likelihood, the bank is not cheating you. If you fail to pay the full balance due before the due date, you will pay finance charges, which usually consist of interest on the unpaid balance.

Question : If the bank is closed on the first 3 days of month, can they charge the full month's interest when you were not able to contact them previous 3 days?
Answe : Yes. Some purchases compound interest monthly, and once the month has started, you could owe interest for the next 30 days. It's just like when you mail a check: it is credited on the day it is received, which would not be on a weekend or holiday.

Question : If my account has been closed but I still have a balance, can I avoid paying the finance charge?
Answer : You can try to negotiate with the credit card company for a payment plan that doesn't involve finance charges or a lump sum payoff but typically you will continue to pay interest as long as you have a balance.

Question : Do I get a personal loan on the basis of my credit card score?
Answer : A lender will consider your credit score as well as your credit history, work history and current income.

Question : If I pay total unbilled amount before due date, can I use my credit limit the next day?
Answer : You should wait until the card issuer has acknowledged receipt of your payment.

Question : If I paid all the outstanding balance, is there any finance charges?
Answer : It's possible there are finance charges left over from before you paid off the balance. If you pay off the full balance on time, there will be no further finance charges placed on your account after that point. If you keep paying the balance down to zero on time every month, you will not see any more finance charges.

Tips.

Check your credit report annually and correct any erroneous information. Some creditors use information obtained in credit reports to increase the finance charge percentage charged.

January 18, 2020

how to calculate an amount to be financed

How to Calculate an Amount to Be Financed.

The full price of a major purchase such as a house, boat or car is rarely financed. Most lenders for these types of loans require a down payment of some sort, usually expressed as a percentage. Additionally, mortgage loans list a different figure, "amount financed," which does not include prepaid fees paid to the lender. Knowing how to calculate an amount to be financed will help you make informed consumer decisions.



Part 1 Calculating a Commercial Loan Amount to be Financed.

1. Determine the selling price. For a vehicle, boat, or another type of commercial loan purchase this will be the amount you agree to pay for your new acquisition. It does not include other aspects of the deal such as the trade-in allowance, fees, taxes, and other closing costs.

2. Subtract any net trade-in allowance. For auto or boat purchases, among others, a dealer may offer a trade-in allowance or credit for giving them your old car or boat when you buy a new one. The value of this item, or a credit provided by the dealer, is then subtracted from what you owe on your new purchase. The net trade-in allowance is found by subtracting the amount still owed on your trade from the trade-in allowance offered by the dealership.

If the trade-in is high enough, dealers don't typically require an extra payment, such as a down payment.

Some dealers may allow you to use the trade-in value of your old vehicle to cover the required down payment on a new one (assuming the old one holds enough value).

3. Account for any cash rebates that are applied to the purchase price of the item. Dealers may also offer cash rebates as a way to incentivize purchases. These cash rebates are simply subtracted from the purchase price at closing. They also do not need to be included in the amount to be financed. Rebates may be provided to certain buyers, like students or military veterans, or may be specific to certain vehicles.

4. Settle on a loan amount. The amount left after rebates and trade-ins is the the amount owed. This amount must be either paid in full or borrowed from a lender and paid off in installments over time. From here, you can calculate the down payment if the lender requires one. For example, a lender might require 10 or 20 percent down on your purchase. Your loan amount is then the amount remaining after the down payment is subtracted out.

5. Use the loan amount as your amount financed. "Amount financed" is a term that is specific to home loans. All other loans simply refer to the amount financed as the total amount of the loan provided to the borrower. For these types of loans, simply use the loan amount after the down payment as calculated in this part as your amount financed.



Part 2 Determining the Amount Financed for a Mortgage Loan.

1. Negotiate a price for the asset with the seller. For a home, this will be your accepted offer price. For example, you might talk a homeowner down to selling a property for $100,000.

2. Subtract any deposits. Home purchases may have required a "good faith" deposit. Other purchases may also require a deposit be made while bidding on or reserving the item. This deposit is typically paid upon submission of an offer to purchase. This money is then subtracted from the purchase price, as you have already paid it.

Deposits are either returned (depending upon terms) or converted into the down payment amount and/or closing costs.

For example, if you put in a $3,000 good faith deposit on a $100,000 home, you would subtract this from the $100,000 to get $97,000.

3. Finalize the loan amount. The portion of the original purchase price remaining after these deductions is your loan amount, assuming you are planning on financing the purchase. This amount must be borrowed from a lender and then repaid over a period of time per a loan agreement. The loan amount is the amount borrowed from the lender, not the amount that will eventually be repaid in total, which also includes interest expenses.

4. Deduct the down payment amount. The down payment is paid in full upon closing the sale. It is generally a percentage of the total purchase price and is designed to provide security for the lender in the event of default. Therefore, it is not included in the amount financed.

Many mortgage lenders require 20 percent down on a real estate transaction, although you may be able to secure an FHA-backed mortgage requiring as little as 5 percent down payment. A lower loan balance results in less interest expense and the possible requirement of mortgage insurance.

A lower downpayment is expected on government- guaranteed loans such as FHA or VA because the lender has recourse to the Federal government in the event of default.

For example, if you paid a 20 percent down payment on the $100,000 house purchase, which would be $20,000, you would subtract this from your total.

Your good faith deposit may be applied towards your down payment. This means that the loan amount would still be the purchase price minus the down payment, which is $80,000 in this case.

5. Understand how amount financed differs from the loan amount. "Amount financed" is a term set by the 1968 Truth in Lending Act to describe how much credit is provided to a borrower when they take out a home loan. It is calculated by subtracting prepaid fees and finance charges from the loan amount, since these fees are paid at closing simultaneously with the execution of the loan documents. This means that the amount financed is always less than the actual loan amount. The amount financed is provided to borrowers on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is supplied after you apply for a home loan.

6. Add up prepaid fees. Prepaid fees are subtracted from the loan amount to arrive at the amount financed. These fees include prepaid points, homeowners association fees, mortgage insurance, and escrow company fees. They also include lender fees like underwriting fees, tax service, process fees, and prepaid interest. Add all of these fees up to arrive a total prepaid fees amount.

7. Subtract total prepaid fees from the loan amount. Subtract all of the prepaid fees from the loan amount to get your amount financed. This information will also be available on your Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement.[9]



Part 3 Using the Amount Financed.

1. Compare different lenders. If you have the amount financed for a mortgage loan, you can use this information to compare different lenders by looking at the associated fees and interest rates. This information is provided on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is provided by all lenders to loan applicants. If you instead are financing another purchase, you can use your amount of financing required to apply to a variety of loans and look for the best combination of fees and interest rate.

2. Calculate the amount of interest you will pay. Your loan will likely be charged compound interest as you pay it off. Compound interest paid increases with the loan duration, the interest rate, and the compounding frequency (how often the compound interest is calculated each year). When you have the amount financed, you can use online interest calculators to determine how much interest you will pay on loans with different loan terms. A longer, higher-interest loan will end up costing you much more money in the long run than a shorter-term, low-interest loan.

For more information, see how to calculate interest payments.

3. Calculate loan payments. If you know how much you need to borrower (your loan amount), you can use this information to check for loan rates online. Check loan aggregator sites to find interest rates for the type and size of loan that you need. Then, input this information into an online loan calculator to figure out what your monthly payments might be. The Financial Industry Regulatory Authority (FINRA) provides a good calculator at http://apps.finra.org/Calcs/1/Loan.

4. Assess your ability to afford a purchase. Once you have an idea of the monthly loan payments, you can use this information to figure out how much you can afford to take out in a loan. Assess your ability to afford the loan by starting with your monthly after-tax income. Then, subtract any existing debt payments (mortgage, auto, etc.), monthly expenses like utilities and food, and savings or contributions to an emergency fund. The amount left is money that you can afford to pay towards a new loan's monthly payment.

Most financial planners suggest limiting house payments plus taxes and insurance to 25 to 28 percent of take-home income.

For example, if your household net income is $7,000 per month, your total outlay for housing should be no more than $1,960 per month.

5. Determine mortgage APR. Your actual mortgage annual percentage rate (APR) is calculated using your amount financed, rather than the loan amount. That is, your actual APR will be higher than the interest rate listed on your loan. To calculate your actual APR, find your monthly payment by using your stated interest rate, loan term, and loan amount and entering them into a loan calculator. Then, record your monthly payment and find a loan calculator that allows you to input your monthly payment, loan duration, and loan amount and receive an interest rate as the output. The output will be your actual APR.

A good calculator for this purpose can be found at http://www.thecalculatorsite.com/finance/calculators/interest-rate-calculator.php.



Question : Gomez family has just purchased a $2,574.54 microcomputer. They made a down payment of $574.54. Through the store's installemnt plan, they have agreed to pay $121.00 per month for the next 18 months. What is the amount financed?

Answer : The amount financed is the portion of the purchase price paid for by the installment plan. In this case, it is the $2,574.54 (purchase price) - $574.54 (the down payment), which is $2,000. The amount to be financed does not include the interest paid during the plan, which will be $178.

Question : Selling Price: $258,900. Loan term: 30 months on 5.25% interest rate. Down payment: $64,7325. What will be the amount to be financed?

Answer : You will be financing the selling price plus any fees, minus the down payment.



Tips.

When shopping for real estate, be sure that your price range reflects your planned amount financed. You may be able to afford more or less, depending upon your savings and the amount of a down payment.

Warnings.

The purchase agreement used by many car dealerships is notoriously complicated and confusing. Be certain that you understand every line item in the agreement before signing it when buying a new or used vehicle.

February 10, 2020

How to Calculate an Amount to Be Financed

How to Calculate an Amount to Be Financed.

The full price of a major purchase such as a house, boat or car is rarely financed. Most lenders for these types of loans require a down payment of some sort, usually expressed as a percentage. Additionally, mortgage loans list a different figure, "amount financed," which does not include prepaid fees paid to the lender. Knowing how to calculate an amount to be financed will help you make informed consumer decisions.



Part 1 Calculating a Commercial Loan Amount to be Financed.

1. Determine the selling price. For a vehicle, boat, or another type of commercial loan purchase this will be the amount you agree to pay for your new acquisition. It does not include other aspects of the deal such as the trade-in allowance, fees, taxes, and other closing costs.

2. Subtract any net trade-in allowance. For auto or boat purchases, among others, a dealer may offer a trade-in allowance or credit for giving them your old car or boat when you buy a new one. The value of this item, or a credit provided by the dealer, is then subtracted from what you owe on your new purchase. The net trade-in allowance is found by subtracting the amount still owed on your trade from the trade-in allowance offered by the dealership.

If the trade-in is high enough, dealers don't typically require an extra payment, such as a down payment.

Some dealers may allow you to use the trade-in value of your old vehicle to cover the required down payment on a new one (assuming the old one holds enough value).

3. Account for any cash rebates that are applied to the purchase price of the item. Dealers may also offer cash rebates as a way to incentivize purchases. These cash rebates are simply subtracted from the purchase price at closing. They also do not need to be included in the amount to be financed. Rebates may be provided to certain buyers, like students or military veterans, or may be specific to certain vehicles.

4. Settle on a loan amount. The amount left after rebates and trade-ins is the the amount owed. This amount must be either paid in full or borrowed from a lender and paid off in installments over time. From here, you can calculate the down payment if the lender requires one. For example, a lender might require 10 or 20 percent down on your purchase. Your loan amount is then the amount remaining after the down payment is subtracted out.

5. Use the loan amount as your amount financed. "Amount financed" is a term that is specific to home loans. All other loans simply refer to the amount financed as the total amount of the loan provided to the borrower. For these types of loans, simply use the loan amount after the down payment as calculated in this part as your amount financed.



Part 2 Determining the Amount Financed for a Mortgage Loan.

1. Negotiate a price for the asset with the seller. For a home, this will be your accepted offer price. For example, you might talk a homeowner down to selling a property for $100,000.

2. Subtract any deposits. Home purchases may have required a "good faith" deposit. Other purchases may also require a deposit be made while bidding on or reserving the item. This deposit is typically paid upon submission of an offer to purchase. This money is then subtracted from the purchase price, as you have already paid it.

Deposits are either returned (depending upon terms) or converted into the down payment amount and/or closing costs.

For example, if you put in a $3,000 good faith deposit on a $100,000 home, you would subtract this from the $100,000 to get $97,000.

3. Finalize the loan amount. The portion of the original purchase price remaining after these deductions is your loan amount, assuming you are planning on financing the purchase. This amount must be borrowed from a lender and then repaid over a period of time per a loan agreement. The loan amount is the amount borrowed from the lender, not the amount that will eventually be repaid in total, which also includes interest expenses.

4. Deduct the down payment amount. The down payment is paid in full upon closing the sale. It is generally a percentage of the total purchase price and is designed to provide security for the lender in the event of default. Therefore, it is not included in the amount financed.

Many mortgage lenders require 20 percent down on a real estate transaction, although you may be able to secure an FHA-backed mortgage requiring as little as 5 percent down payment. A lower loan balance results in less interest expense and the possible requirement of mortgage insurance.

A lower downpayment is expected on government- guaranteed loans such as FHA or VA because the lender has recourse to the Federal government in the event of default.

For example, if you paid a 20 percent down payment on the $100,000 house purchase, which would be $20,000, you would subtract this from your total.

Your good faith deposit may be applied towards your down payment. This means that the loan amount would still be the purchase price minus the down payment, which is $80,000 in this case.

5. Understand how amount financed differs from the loan amount. "Amount financed" is a term set by the 1968 Truth in Lending Act to describe how much credit is provided to a borrower when they take out a home loan. It is calculated by subtracting prepaid fees and finance charges from the loan amount, since these fees are paid at closing simultaneously with the execution of the loan documents. This means that the amount financed is always less than the actual loan amount. The amount financed is provided to borrowers on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is supplied after you apply for a home loan.

6. Add up prepaid fees. Prepaid fees are subtracted from the loan amount to arrive at the amount financed. These fees include prepaid points, homeowners association fees, mortgage insurance, and escrow company fees. They also include lender fees like underwriting fees, tax service, process fees, and prepaid interest. Add all of these fees up to arrive a total prepaid fees amount.

7. Subtract total prepaid fees from the loan amount. Subtract all of the prepaid fees from the loan amount to get your amount financed. This information will also be available on your Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement.[9]



Part 3 Using the Amount Financed.

1. Compare different lenders. If you have the amount financed for a mortgage loan, you can use this information to compare different lenders by looking at the associated fees and interest rates. This information is provided on the Truth in Lending Disclosure Statement, which is provided by all lenders to loan applicants. If you instead are financing another purchase, you can use your amount of financing required to apply to a variety of loans and look for the best combination of fees and interest rate.

2. Calculate the amount of interest you will pay. Your loan will likely be charged compound interest as you pay it off. Compound interest paid increases with the loan duration, the interest rate, and the compounding frequency (how often the compound interest is calculated each year). When you have the amount financed, you can use online interest calculators to determine how much interest you will pay on loans with different loan terms. A longer, higher-interest loan will end up costing you much more money in the long run than a shorter-term, low-interest loan.

For more information, see how to calculate interest payments.

3. Calculate loan payments. If you know how much you need to borrower (your loan amount), you can use this information to check for loan rates online. Check loan aggregator sites to find interest rates for the type and size of loan that you need. Then, input this information into an online loan calculator to figure out what your monthly payments might be. The Financial Industry Regulatory Authority (FINRA) provides a good calculator at http://apps.finra.org/Calcs/1/Loan.

4. Assess your ability to afford a purchase. Once you have an idea of the monthly loan payments, you can use this information to figure out how much you can afford to take out in a loan. Assess your ability to afford the loan by starting with your monthly after-tax income. Then, subtract any existing debt payments (mortgage, auto, etc.), monthly expenses like utilities and food, and savings or contributions to an emergency fund. The amount left is money that you can afford to pay towards a new loan's monthly payment.

Most financial planners suggest limiting house payments plus taxes and insurance to 25 to 28 percent of take-home income.

For example, if your household net income is $7,000 per month, your total outlay for housing should be no more than $1,960 per month.

5. Determine mortgage APR. Your actual mortgage annual percentage rate (APR) is calculated using your amount financed, rather than the loan amount. That is, your actual APR will be higher than the interest rate listed on your loan. To calculate your actual APR, find your monthly payment by using your stated interest rate, loan term, and loan amount and entering them into a loan calculator. Then, record your monthly payment and find a loan calculator that allows you to input your monthly payment, loan duration, and loan amount and receive an interest rate as the output. The output will be your actual APR.

A good calculator for this purpose can be found at http://www.thecalculatorsite.com/finance/calculators/interest-rate-calculator.php.



Question : Gomez family has just purchased a $2,574.54 microcomputer. They made a down payment of $574.54. Through the store's installemnt plan, they have agreed to pay $121.00 per month for the next 18 months. What is the amount financed?

Answer : The amount financed is the portion of the purchase price paid for by the installment plan. In this case, it is the $2,574.54 (purchase price) - $574.54 (the down payment), which is $2,000. The amount to be financed does not include the interest paid during the plan, which will be $178.

Question : Selling Price: $258,900. Loan term: 30 months on 5.25% interest rate. Down payment: $64,7325. What will be the amount to be financed?

Answer : You will be financing the selling price plus any fees, minus the down payment.



Tips.

When shopping for real estate, be sure that your price range reflects your planned amount financed. You may be able to afford more or less, depending upon your savings and the amount of a down payment.

Warnings.

The purchase agreement used by many car dealerships is notoriously complicated and confusing. Be certain that you understand every line item in the agreement before signing it when buying a new or used vehicle.

February 10, 2020