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How to Calculate Compound Interest.

Compound interest is distinct from simple interest in that interest is earned both on the original investment (the principal) and the interest accumulated so far, rather than simply on the principal. Because of this, accounts with compound interest grow faster than those with simple interest. Additionally, the value will grow even faster if the interest is compounded multiple times per year. Compound interest is offered on a variety of investment products and also charged on certain types of loans, like credit card debt. Calculating how much an amount will grow under compound interest is simple with the right equations.

Part 1 Finding Annual Compound Interest.
1. Define annual compounding. The interest rate stated on your investment prospectus or loan agreement is an annual rate. If your car loan, for example, is a 6% loan, you pay 6% interest each year. Compounding once at the end of the year is the easiest calculation for compounding interest.
A debt may compound interest annually, monthly or even daily.
The more frequently your debt compounds, the faster you will accumulate interest.
You can look at compound interest from the investor or the debtor’s point of view. Frequent compounding means that the investor’s interest earnings will increase at a faster rate. It also means that the debtor will owe more interest while the debt is outstanding.
For example, a savings account may be compounded annually, while a pay-day loan can be compounded monthly or even weekly.
2. Calculate interest compounding annually for year one. Assume that you own a $1,000, 6% savings bond issued by the US Treasury. Treasury savings bonds pay out interest each year based on their interest rate and current value.
Interest paid in year 1 would be $60 ($1,000 multiplied by 6% = $60).
To calculate interest for year 2, you need to add the original principal amount to all interest earned to date. In this case, the principal for year 2 would be ($1,000 + $60 = $1,060). The value of the bond is now $1,060 and the interest payment will be calculated from this value.
3. Compute interest compounding for later years. To see the bigger impact of compound interest, compute interest for later years. As you move from year to year, the principal amount continues to grow.
Multiply the year 2 principal amount by the bond’s interest rate. ($1,060 X 6% = $63.60). The interest earned is higher by $3.60 ($63.60 - $60.00). That’s because the principal amount increased from $1,000 to $1,060.
For year 3, the principal amount is ($1,060 + $63.60 = $1,123.60). The interest earned in year 3 is $67.42. That amount is added to the principal balance for the year 4 calculation.
The longer a debt is outstanding, the bigger the impact of compounding interest. Outstanding means that the debt is still owed by the debtor.
Without compounding, the year 2 interest would simply be ($1,000 X 6% = $60). In fact, every year’s interest earned would be $60 if you did earn compound interest. This is known as simple interest.
4. Create an excel document to compute compound interest. It can be handy to visualize compound interest by creating a simple model in excel that shows the growth of your investment. Start by opening a document and labeling the top cell in columns A, B, and C "Year," "Value," and "Interest Earned," respectively.
Enter the years (0-5) in cells A2 to A7.
Enter your principal in cell B2. For example, imagine you are started with $1,000. Input 1000.
In cell B3, type "=B2*1.06" and press enter. This means that your interest is being compounded annually at 6% (0.06). Click on the lower right corner of cell B3 and drag the formula down to cell B7. The numbers will fill in appropriately.
Place a 0 in cell C2. In cell C3, type "=B3-B$2" and press enter. This should give you the difference between the values in cell B3 and B2, which represents the interest earned. Click on the lower right corner of cell C3 and drag the formula down to cell C7. The values will fill themselves in.
Continue this process to replicate the process for as many years as you want to track. You can also easily change values for principal and interest rate by altering the formulas used and cell contents.

Part 2 Calculating Compound Interest on Investments.
1. Learn the compound interest formula. The compound interest formula solves for the future value of the investment after set number of years. The formula itself is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}} The variables within the equation are defined as follows:
"FV" is the future value. This is the result of the calculation.
"P" is your principal.
"i" represents the annual interest rate.
"c" represents the compounding frequency (how many times the interest compounds each year).
"n" represents the number of years being measured.
2. Gather variables the compound interest formula. If interest compounds more often than annually, it is difficult to calculate the formula manually. You can use a compound interest formula for any calculation. To use the formula, you need to gather the following information.
Identify the principal of the investment. This is the original amount of your investment. This could be how much you deposited into the account or the original cost of the bond. For example, imagine your principal in an investment account is $5,000.
Locate the interest rate for the debt. The interest rate should be an annual amount, stated as a percentage of the principal. For example, a 3.45% interest rate on the $5,000 principal value.
In the calculation, the interest rate will have to be input as decimal. Convert it by dividing the interest rate by 100. In this example, this would be 3.45%/100 = 0.0345.
You also need to know how often the debt compounds. Typically, interest compounds annually, monthly or daily. For example, imagine that it compounds monthly. This means your compounding frequency ("c") would be input as 12.
Determine the length of time you want to measure. This could be a goal year for growth, like 5 or 10 years, or this maturity of a bond. The maturity date of a bond is the date that the principal amount of the debt is to be repaid. For the example, we use 2 years, so input 2.
3. Use the formula. Input your variables in the right places. Check again to make sure that you are inputting them correctly. Specifically, make sure that your interest rate is in decimal form and that you have used the right number for "c" (compounding frequency).
The example investment would be input as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}
Compute the exponent portion and the portion of the formula in parenthesis separately. This is a math concept called order of operations. You can learn more about the concept using this link: Apply the Order of Operations.
4. Finish the math computations in the formula. Simplify the problem by solving for the parts of the equation in parenthesis first, beginning with the fraction.
Divide the fraction within parentheses first. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}
Add the numbers within parentheses. The result should be: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{2*12}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponent (the last part above the closing parenthesis). The result should look like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{24}}FV=\$5000(1.00288)^{{24}}
Raise the number within the parentheses to the power of the exponent. This can be done on a calculator by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example) first, pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} button, then entering the exponent (24 in this case) and pressing enter. The result in the example is {\displaystyle FV=\$5000(1.0715)}FV=\$5000(1.0715)
Finally, multiply the principal by the number in parentheses. The result in the example is $5,000*1.0715, or $5,357.50. This is the value of the account at the end of the two years.
5. Subtract the principal from your answer. This will give you the amount of interest earned.
Subtract the principal of $5,000 from the future value of $5357.50 to get $5,375.50-$5,000, or $357.50
You will earn $357.50 in interest over the two years.

Part 3 Calculating Compound Interest With Regular Payments.
1. Learn the formula. Compounding interest accounts can increase even faster if you make regular contributions to them, such as adding a monthly amount to a savings account. The formula is longer than that used to calculate compound interest without regular payments, but follows the same principles. The formula is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=P(1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}+{\frac {R((1+{\frac {i}{c}})^{n*c}-1)}{\frac {i}{c}}}}FV=P(1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}+{\frac  {R((1+{\frac  {i}{c}})^{{n*c}}-1)}{{\frac  {i}{c}}}}[7]The variables within the equation are also the same as the previous equation, with one addition.
"P" is the principal.
"i" is the annual interest rate.
"c" is the compounding frequency and represents how many times the interest is compounded each year.
"n" is the number of years.
"R" is the amount of the monthly contribution.
2. Compile the necessary variables. To compute the future value of this type of account, you will need the principal (or present value) of the account, the annual interest rate, the compounding frequency, the number of years being measured, and the amount of your monthly contribution. This information should be in your investment agreement.
Be sure to convert the annual interest rate into a decimal. Do this by dividing the rate by 100. For example, using the above 3.45% interest rate, we would divide 3.45 by 100 to get 0.0345.
For compounding frequency, simply use the number of times per year that the interest compounds. This means annually is 1, monthly is 12, and daily is 365 (don't worry about leap years).
3. Input your variables. Continuing with the example from above, imagine that you decide to also contribute $100 per month to your account. This account, with a principal value of $5,000, compounds monthly and earns 3.45% annual interest. We will measure the growth of the account over two years.
The completed formula using this information is as follows: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+{\frac {0.0345}{12}})^{2*12}-1)}{\frac {0.0345}{12}}}}FV=\$5,000(1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+{\frac  {0.0345}{12}})^{{2*12}}-1)}{{\frac  {0.0345}{12}}}}
4. Solve the equation. Again, remember to use the proper order of operations to do so. This means that you start by calculating the values inside of parentheses.
Solve for the fractions with parentheses first. This means dividing "i" by "c" in three places, all for the same result of 0.00288. The equation now looks like this: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1+0.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1+0.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the addition within the parentheses. This means adding the 1 to the result from the last part. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{2*12}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{2*12}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{2*12}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{2*12}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the multiplication within the exponents. This means multiplying the two numbers that are smaller and above the closing parentheses. In the example, this is 2*12 for a result of 24. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{24}+{\frac {\$100((1.00288)^{24}-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.00288)^{{24}}+{\frac  {\$100((1.00288)^{{24}}-1)}{0.00288}}
Solve the exponents. This means raising the amount within parentheses to the result of the last step. On a calculator, this is done by entering the value in parentheses (1.00288 in the example), pressing the {\displaystyle x^{y}}x^{y} key, and then entering the exponent value (which is 24 here). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(1.0715-1)}{0.00288}}
Subtract. Subtract the one from the result of the last step in the right part of the equation (here 1.0715 minus 1). This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,000(1.0715)+{\frac  {\$100(0.0715)}{0.00288}}
Multiply. This means multiplying the principal by the number is the first set of parentheses and the monthly contribution by the same number in parentheses. This gives: {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac {\$7.15}{0.00288}}}FV=\$5,357.50+{\frac  {\$7.15}{0.00288}}
Divide the fraction. This gives {\displaystyle FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64}FV=\$5,357.50+\$2,482.64
Add. Finally, add the two number to get the future value of the account. This gives $5,357.50 + $2,482.64, or $7,840.14. This is the value of the account after the two years.
5. Subtract the principal and payments. To find the interest earned, you have to subtract the amount of money you put into the account. This means adding the principal, $5,000, to the total value of contributions made, which is 24 contributions (2 years* 12 months/year) times the $100 you put in each month for a total of $2,400. The total is $5,000 plus $2,400, or $7,400. Subtracting $7,400 from the future value of $7,840.14, you get the amount of interest earned, which is $440.14.
6. Extend your calculation. To really see the benefit of compound interest, imagine that you continue adding money monthly to the same account for twenty years instead of two. In this case, your future value would be about $45,000, even though you will have only contributed $29,000, meaning that you will have earned $16,000 in interest.

FAQ.
Question : What does "to the power of" mean?
Answer : "To the power of" refers to a particular numerical exponent. It is a multiplication in which a number appears as a factor that many times. For example, 2 to the power of 1 equals 2. 2 to the power of 2 equals 2x2, or 4, and 2 to the power of 3 is 2 x 2 x 2, or 8.
Question : How do I find the compound interest on a 29,870 loan at 6% interest?
Answer : First take out the amount by the formulae: principle(1+ r/100) to the power n (number of years), then take out the ci by subtracting the principle from the amount.
Question : What do I type on a calculator to find compound interest?
Answer : Compound interest can be calculated in several ways. The most common is to say that A=Pe^(rt) where P is the initial amount, "e" is a constant around 2.71, "r" is the interest rate (i.e. 7% would be entered in as 0.07), "t" is the duration in which the interest is being calculated in years and "A" is the final amount.
Question : How do I know if it's better to owe interest on something or to pay a lump sum at no interest?
Answer : Cost/value analysis. Calculate the total you'll pay under both methods and find the difference. Then compare that difference to the value of buying now (with a loan) versus later (lump sum).
Question : How do I find the future value and the compound interest if £4000 is invested for 5 years at 42% p.a?
Answer : Principal=$4000, n=5, R=42%,0.42. The formula: FV=PV(1+r)r aise power n and substitute the value.
Question : How do I calculate principal in compound interest?
Answer : Principal = fv = p(1 + i/c)ⁿc. Formula for principal in compound interest (1 + R/100), where R = rate.

Tips.

You can also calculate compound interest easily using an online compound interest calculator. The US Government hosts a good one at https://www.investor.gov/tools/calculators/compound-interest-calculator.
A quick rule of thumb to find compound interest is the "rule of 72." Start by dividing 72 by the amount of the interest your are earning, for example 4%. In this case, this would be 72/4, or 18. This result, 18, is roughly the number of years it will take for your investment to double at the current interest rate. Keep in mind that the rule of 72 is just a quick approximation, not an exact result.[8]
You can also use these calculations to perform "what-if" calculations that can tell you how much you will earn with a given interest rate, principal, compounding frequency, or number of years.
April 09, 2020

How to Find a Buyer for Your Annuity.

Although an annuity is meant to provide steady income, particularly when you retire, there are circumstances under which you might decide to sell your annuity. For example, you might decide to sell your annuity in order to buy a home, invest in a business, or to cover the costs of an emergency. Perhaps you've done the math and discovered that your annuity isn't the best most profitable option for you, and you'd like to reinvest. To find the right buyer for your annuity, look for buyers who can give you the terms you desire. If time permits, get competing offers rather than going for the first buyer you find.

Part 1 Evaluating Your Annuity.
1. Determine whether or not your annuity is transferable. If your annuity is not transferable, then you cannot sell it under any circumstances. Check your contract to see if it is transferable. If you are trying to get immediate funds, list your nontransferable annuity as an asset or form of income and apply for a bank loan.
2. Determine if your annuity is a structured settlement. Check your contract or consult your accountant to learn about the laws in your state. Most states have laws that protect people trying to sell their structured annuity. If your state has a Structured Settlement Protection Act, your transaction will have to be approved by a state court. The Periodic Payment Settlement Act protects those who received a cash sum as a result of personal injury and wrongful death lawsuits, from spending the awarded money too quickly, which may then force them to turn to public assistance to meet their needs.
Don’t try to sell a structured annuity by yourself, especially if you are living in a state that does not have a structured annuity protection law. Talk to a trusted broker and attorney before you proceed.
3. Evaluate your annuity. Before you shop around for annuity buyers, find out what the resale value of your annuity is. Hire an accountant if you are unclear on the details of your investment and its relative worth. Keep in mind that selling your annuity always result in your receiving a lower amount of money from your annuity. You will get a lump-sum payment that is adjusted with a discount rate, meaning that you'll get about 8 to 14 percent less than you would if you waited for the payments.
4. Understand the tax implications of selling your annuity. All annuities offer tax-deferral from the time of your initial investment. Your distributions, however, are taxable. This means that your annuity grows tax-free in the accumulation phase, but is taxed as distributions are made to you. These payments are taxed as ordinary income.
Gains made by selling your annuity before it matures are taxable as ordinary income. However, losses on the sale are not tax-deductible as investment losses.
If you withdraw from an annuity before age 59.5, you are also charged a 10% tax penalty. However, exceptions are made in various cases, such as the death or disability of the annuity holder.
You can also trade your annuity for another qualified annuity contract without paying taxes on the first annuity. These "1035" exchanges can be tricky, so check with a tax accountant or investment adviser before proceeding.

Part 2 Finding a Buyer.
1. Search for potential annuity buyers. Your best source for locating a potential buyers is the insurance agent that first sold you the annuity. They understand the market well and will likely have contacts for this sort of transaction. Additionally, they may also charge you a reduced commission for finding a buyer, as you already paid them a commission when you purchased the annuity. Alternately, you can search for an annuity buyer online. Before working with any of these companies, make sure that they:
Have positive, independent reviews of their services.
Have excellent customer service.
Can make a competitive offer for your annuity.
Are licensed to conduct business and follow all appropriate regulations.
Communicate timelines and figures in a transparent way.
Recommend that you first consult with a financial professional before selling.
Try checking with the Better Business Bureau (BBB) to identify whether or not the company is reputable. Companies with poor ratings from the BBB should be avoided.
Some reputable buyers of annuities include JG Wentworth, Catalina Structured Funding, Peachtree Financial, and Stone Street Capital. These companies can be contacted by phone or through their respective websites.
2. Hire a broker. If you are having trouble finding potential buyers, or if you can't find the price you think is reasonable, hire a broker. You’ll have to pay a brokerage fee, but you may stand to gain from the expertise of the broker's negotiations. Choose your broker carefully. Check their certifications to ensure that they are licensed to negotiate the sort of sale you want to make.
Ask the broker you want to hire for a quote. If they quote you a percentage, calculate it before you agree.
Look up the name of a broker you haven't worked with before. Any violations or complaints they have might be online.
3. Get offers for your annuity. Try to obtain offers from at least five companies before you choose. When you find companies online, use their quote form to get a free quote from them. A quote is not necessarily the amount you would receive, and it may not include the fee that may be deducted when a settlement is reached.
When you fill out the free quote form, give them only the standard information. Your name, email address and the name of your annuity should be the only information they ask for.
Do not give your social security number, bank information, or pay any fees to obtain a free quote.
Give yourself as much time as you can to make the sale. A rushed sale is less likely to get you a good deal.
4. Pick the best offer. Getting an offer of about 80% of the value of your annuity would be considered a good deal. Do not take a deal in which your buyer expects you to pay fees out of pocket before a settlement is agreed upon. Once you have finalized your agreement, all agreed upon court costs, legal fees and commissions should be deducted from the final settlement.
5. Gather your paperwork. To sell your annuity, you will need copies of your original annuity application and your annuity policy. If you are already collecting on your annuity, you will need your most recent disbursement check and tax return. If you have a settlement agreement, you will need a copy of that. Bring your valid government issued id, such as a passport or driver's license, and a written declaration that you are selling your annuity of your own free will.
Gather any other documentation your buyer requires, such as a copy of a court judgment for a structured annuity, or copies of any release agreements.

Part 3 Deciding What Kind of Sale to Make.
1. Decide what type of funding you are trying to get from your sale. Investigate the various ways annuity buyouts are made. Remember that no matter what kind of deal you make, the buyer will get the better deal in the long term. You will likely be offered anywhere from 60% to 85% of the value of your annuity. With this in mind, consider alternatives to selling your annuity.
If you are just selling your annuity to free up some cash, taking out a loan might better serve your purposes.
2. Consider selling as a straight purchase. If you sell as a straight purchase, the buyer will give you one lump-sum payment for your annuity. You will not go on to collect future payments. Choose to sell as a straight purchase if you are trying to get the largest immediate sum possible, or if you have determined that your annuity is not serving its purpose.
If you sell an annuity contract, you will have to pay ordinary income tax on your annuity's earnings.
3. Consider selling as a partial purchase. In this case, the buyer purchases your immediate annuity payments for a set period. At the end of that time, you once again collect your annuity payments as scheduled. Consider this option if you have a temporary shortage of cash, but would like to continue investing in your retirement.
4. Consider selling as a reverse purchase. Sell several years of your annuity. For example, if you are now receiving $1,000 per month for the next 15 years, sell your payments from years 5 through 10 only. You will get a lump sum for those years, but still receive your current payments up through year 4. You will then receive no monthly payments in years 5 through 10, but they will resume in years 11 through 15.
Know that this will result in a lower overall payout from your annuity. You will get the money for the sold years up front, but it will be lower than the total value of the payments from those years.
You also need to be sure of the value of the future payments before any deals are made.
This might be a good option if you need money now, but know you will be able to support yourself during an upcoming time period.
5. Consider selling as split purchases. If your buyer makes a split purchase, they will receive part of your monthly payment. If you only need $500 a month and your annuity payment is $1,000, sell half your annuity; you will get an immediate lump sum for the half you don't need, and continue to receive monthly payments of $500.
Even though you've only sold half the annuity, you will still pay ordinary income taxes on the deferred earnings and any gains made on the sale.

Tips. 

Give yourself as much time as possible to make the best sale. Let the companies you deal with know that you are making casual inquiries. If you appear to be shopping around without rushing, you will be more likely to get better, more competitive offers.
May 04, 2020

How to Be Smart with Money.


Being smart with money doesn’t have to involve high risk investments or having thousands of dollars in the bank. No matter what your current situation is, you can be more financially savvy in your everyday life. Start by building a budget to help you stay within your means and prioritize your financial goals. Then, you can work on paying down your debt, building up your savings, and making better spending decisions.

Method 1 Managing Your Budget.
1. Set your financial goals. Understanding what you are working toward will help you build a budget to meet your needs. Do you want to pay down debt? Are you saving for a major purchase? Are you just looking to be more financially stable? Make your top priorities clear so that you can build your budget to fit them.
2. Look at your overall monthly income. A smart budget is one that doesn’t overextend your means. Start by calculating your total monthly income. Include not just the money you get from work, but any cash you get from things like side-hustles, alimony, or child support. If you share expenses with your partner, calculate your combined income to figure out a household budget.
You should aim to have your overall monthly spending not exceed what you bring in. Emergencies and unforeseen occasions happen, but try to set a goal of not using your credit card to cover non-necessary items when your bank accounts are low.
3. Calculate your necessary expenses. Your first priority in building a better budget should be those things that need to be paid every month. Paying these expenses should be your first priority, as these items are not only necessary for daily function, but could also damage your credit if you fail to pay them in full and on time.
Such expenses may include your mortgage or rent, utilities, car payments, and credit card payments, as well as things like your groceries, gas, and insurance.
Set your bills up on autopay to make them easy to prioritize. This way, the money comes right out of your account on the day the bill is due.
4. Factor in your non-essential expenses. Budgets work best when they reflect your daily life. Take a look at your regular, non-essential expenses and build them into your budget so that you can anticipate your spending. If you get a coffee every morning on the way to work, for example, throw that in your budget.
5. Look for places to make cuts. Creating a budget will help you identify things you can cut from your regular expenses and roll into your savings or debt payments. Investing in a good coffee pot and a quality to-go mug, for example, can really help you save long-term on your morning fix.
Don’t just look at daily expenses. Check things like your insurance policies and see if there are places you can scale back. If you are paying for collision and comprehensive insurance on an old car, for example, you may opt to scale back to just liability.
6. Track your monthly spending. A budget is a guideline for your overall spending habits. Your actual spending will vary each month depending upon your personal needs. Track your spending by using an expenses journal, a spreadsheet, or even a budgeting app to help you ensure that you are staying within your means each month.
If you do mess up or go over your budget goals, don’t beat yourself up. Use the opportunity to see if you need to revise your budget to include new expenses. Remind yourself that getting off-target happens to everyone occasionally, and that you can get to where you want to be.
7. Build some savings into your budget. Exactly how much you save will depend upon your job, your personal expenses, and your individual financial goals. You should aim to save something each month, though, whether that’s $50 or $500. Keep that money in a savings account separate from your primary bank account.
This savings should be separate from your 401(k) or any other investments that you have. Building a small general savings will help you protect yourself financially if an emergency comes up, such as a major repair around the house or unexpectedly losing your job.
Many financial experts recommend a target savings of 3-6 months’ worth of expenses. If you have a lot of debt you need to pay down, aim for a partial emergency fund of 1-2 months, then focus the rest of your cash on your debt.

Method 2 Paying Off Debts
1. Figure out how much you owe. To understand how to best pay down your debt, you first need to understand how much you owe. Add together all your debts, including credit cards, short-term loans, student loans, and any mortgages or auto financing you have in your name. Look at your total debt numbers to help you understand how much you owe, and how long it will truly take to pay it off.
2. Prioritize high-interest debts. Debts like credit cards tend to have higher interest rates than things like student loans. The longer your carry a balance on high interest debts, the more you ultimately pay. Prioritize paying down your highest interest debts first, making minimum payments on other debts and putting extra money into your top debt priorities.
If you have a short-term loan like a car title loan, prioritize paying that down as quickly as possible. Such loans can be devastating if not paid off in full and on time.
3. Go straight from paying off one debt to the next. When you pay off one credit card, don’t roll that payment amount back into your discretionary funds. Instead, roll the amount you were paying into your next debt.
If, for example, you finished paying down a credit card, take the amount you were putting toward your credit card and add it to the minimum payment for your student loans.

Method 3 Setting Up Savings.
1. Pick a savings goal. Saving tends to be easier when you know what you’re saving for. Try to set a goal, such as building an emergency fund, saving for a down payment, saving for a major household purchase, or building a retirement fund. If your bank will let you, you can even give your account a nickname such as “Vacation Fund” to help remind you of what you’re working toward.
2. Keep your savings in a separate account. A savings account is generally the easiest place to put your savings if you are just starting out. If you already have a solid emergency fund and have a reasonable amount to invest, such as $1,000, you may consider something like a certificate of deposit (CD). CDs make your money much harder to get to for a fixed period of time, but tend to have a much higher interest rate.
Keeping your savings separate from your checking account will make it harder to spend your savings. Savings accounts also tend to have a slightly higher interest rate than checking accounts.
Many banks will allow you to set up an automatic transfer between your checking and savings accounts. Set up a monthly transfer from your checking to your savings, even if it’s just for a small amount.
3. Invest raises and bonuses. If you get a raise, a bonus, a tax return, or another unexpected windfall, put it in your savings. This is an easy way to help boost your account without compromising your current budget.
If you get a raise, invest the difference between your budgeted salary and your new salary directly into your savings. Since you already have a plan to live off your old salary, you can use the new influx of cash to build your savings.
4. Dedicate your side gig money to your savings. If you work a side gig, build a budget based on your primary source of income and dedicate all your earnings from your side gig to your savings. This will help grow your savings faster while making your budget more comfortable.

Method 4 Spending Money Wisely.
1. Prioritize your needs. Start each budget period by paying for your needs. This should include your rent or mortgage, utility bills, insurance, gas, groceries, recurring medical expenses, and any other expenses you may have. Do not put any money toward non-necessary expenses until all of your necessary living costs have been paid.
2. Shop around. It can be easy to get in the habit of shopping in the same place repeatedly, but taking time shop around can help you find the best deals. Check in stores and online to look for the best prices for your needs. Look for stores that might be running sales, or that specialize in discount or surplus merchandise.
Bulk stores can be useful for buying things you use a lot of, or things that don't expire such as cleaning supplies.
3. Buy clothes and shoes out-of-season. New styles of clothes, shoes, and accessories generally come out seasonally. Shopping out-of-season can help you find better prices on fashion items. Shopping online is particularly useful for out-of-season clothes, as not all stores will have non-seasonal items.
4. Use cash instead of cards. For non-necessary expenses such as going out to eat or seeing a movie, set a budget. Withdraw the necessary amount of cash before you go out, and leave your cards at home. This will make it more difficult to overspend or impulse buy while you're out.
5. Monitor your spending. Ultimately, as long as you're not spending more than you bring in, you're on target. Regularly monitor your spending in whatever way works best for you. You may prefer to check your bank account every day, or you could sign up for a money-monitoring app such as Mint, Dollarbird, or BillGuard to help you track your spending.
April 11, 2020


How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.
December 19, 2019


How to Calculate Finance Charges on a Leased Vehicle.

At some point, you may want or need to have a new car. You may also want to weigh the cost differences between leasing and buying before you make your decision. One way to compare costs is to figure out exactly what you will be paying for each. When you buy a car, you finance the amount charged for the vehicle and the interest rate is clear. When you lease a car, you pay to use the vehicle for a period of time, similar to renting it, and turn it in at the end of the lease. The finance charges for a lease may not always be clear. To calculate the finance charges on a leased vehicle, you need to know only a few things: the net capitalized cost, residual value and money factor. If these are known, calculating your finance charges is a simple process.

Part 1 Collecting Necessary Data.

1. Determine the net cap cost. The term “net cap cost” is a shortened form of net capitalized cost. This is ultimately the overall price of the vehicle. The net cap cost may be affected by other additions or subtractions, as follows.

Any miscellaneous fees or taxes are added to the cost to increase the net cap cost.

Any down payment, trade in or rebates are considered “net cap reductions.” These are subtracted and will reduce the net cap cost.

Suppose, for example, that a vehicle is listed with a cost of $30,000. There is a rebate or you make a down payment of $5,000. Therefore, the net cap cost for this vehicle is $25,000.

2. Establish the residual value of the vehicle. This is a bit like predicting the future. The residual value is the vehicle’s value at the end of the lease, when you will return it. This is always a bit uncertain because nobody can predict the exact condition of the vehicle, the mileage or the repairs that it will undergo during the lease. To establish the residual value, dealers use industry guide books, such as the Automotive Leasing Guide (ALG).

The graphic shown above illustrates the decline in the vehicle’s value over time. For this example, the residual value at the end of the term is set at $15,000.

Some dealers choose not to use the ALG. Instead, they may develop their own guide or functions for setting residual values.

3. Find out the dealer’s money factor. Leased vehicles do not charge interest in the same way that purchase agreements do. There is, however, a finance charge that is analogous to interest. You are paying the leasing company for the use of their vehicle during the term of your lease. This charge is based on a number called the “money factor.”

The money factor is not generally publicized. You will need to ask the dealer to share it with you.

The money factor does not look like an interest rate. It will generally be a decimal number like 0.00333. To compare the money factor to an annual interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2400. In this example, a money factor of 0.00333 is roughly like a loan interest rate of 0.00333x2400 = 7.992% interest. This is not an exact equivalence but is a regularly accepted comparison value.

Part 2 Performing the Calculations.

1. Add the net cap cost and the residual value. The finance charge is based on the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value. At first glance, this appears to be an unfair doubling of the car’s value. However, in combination with the money factor, this works as a way to average the net cap cost and the residual value. You end up paying the finance fee on an average overall value of the car.

Consider the example started above. The net cap cost is $25,000, and the residual is $15,000. The total, therefore, is the sum of $25,000+$15,000 = $40,000.

2. Multiply that sum by the money factor. The money factor is applied to the sum of the net cap cost and the residual value of the car to find the monthly finance charge.

Continuing with the example above, use the money factor 0.00333. Multiply this by the sum of the net cap cost and residual as follows:

$40,000 x 0.00333 = $133.2.

3. Apply the monthly finance charge. The result of the final calculation is the monthly finance charge that will be added to your lease payment. In this example, the finance charge is $133.20 each month.

4. Figure the full monthly payment. The finance charge may be the largest portion of your monthly payment, but you cannot count on it to be the full payment. In addition to the finance charge, many dealers will also charge a depreciation fee. This is the cost that you pay to compensate the dealer for the decreased value of the car over time. Finally, you may be responsible for assorted taxes.

Before you sign any lease agreement, you should find out the full monthly charge you are responsible for. Ask the dealer to itemize all the costs for you, and make sure that you understand and can afford them all.

Part 3 Negotiating with the Dealer.

1. Ask for the data you want. Many people, when leasing a vehicle, seem satisfied to accept the bottom line figure that the dealer assigns. However, to verify that any deal you negotiate is actually honored, you need to know the details of the finance charge calculations. Without asking for the data, you could be the victim of carelessness, simple error, or even fraud.

You could negotiate a reduced price for the vehicle, but then the dealer could base the calculations on the original value anyway.

The dealer might not apply proper credit for a trade-in vehicle.

The dealer could make mathematical errors in calculating the finance charge.

The dealer could apply a money factor other than the one used in the original negotiations.

2. Press the dealer for the “money factor.” The money factor is a decimal number that car dealerships use to calculate the finance charges. This number is not an interest rate but is somewhat analogous to interest rates. Some lease dealers may publicize the money factor, while others may not. You should ask for the money factor that your dealer is using. Also ask how the money factor is used to calculate the finance fee charged on your lease.

3. Ask the dealer to show you the calculation worksheet. The dealer is not required to share with you the calculations that go into the finance charge and monthly payments on your leased vehicle. Unless you ask specifically, you will probably never see that information. You should ask the dealer, sales clerk or manager to share the calculations with you. Even if you have the individual bits of data, you may not be able to confirm that the figures were calculated accurately or fairly unless you compare your notes to the dealer’s calculations.

4. Threaten to leave if the dealer is not forthcoming with information. The only leverage you have in the negotiations over a leased vehicle’s finance charges is the ability to walk away. Make it clear to the dealer that you want to verify the calculations and the individual pieces of information that go into figuring your finance charges. If the dealer is unwilling to share this information with you, you should threaten to leave and lease your car from somewhere else.

Tips.

If the lease dealership will not provide you with the money factor, go to a different dealer. You cannot determine and compare your true costs and fair value unless you have this information.

The higher the car value at lease end (that is, less depreciation), the less your finance charges will be, which, in turn, will reduce your monthly payment.

Warnings

Some dealers may present the money factor number so that it is easier to read, such as 3.33; however, this could be misinterpreted as the interest rate. Be aware that this is not the rate that will be used. This number should be converted to the actual money factor by dividing by 1,000 (3.33 divided by 1,000 = 0.00333).

Be aware that the finance cost (as calculated here to be $133.20) is not necessarily your total monthly payment. It is only the finance charge and may not include other charges such as sales tax or the acquisition fee.

Things You'll Need : Net cap cost, Residual cost, Money factor, Paper, Pen or pencil, Calculator.
December 19, 2019

How to Start Investing.

It is never too soon to start investing. Investing is the smartest way to secure your financial future and to begin letting your money make more money for you. Investing is not just for people who have plenty of spare cash. On the contrary, anyone can (and should) invest. You can get started with just a little bit of money and a lot of know-how. By formulating a plan and familiarizing yourself with the tools available, you can quickly learn how to start investing.

Part 1 Getting Acquainted with Different Investment Vehicles.
1. Make sure you have a safety net. Holding some money in reserve is a good idea because (a) if you lose your investment you'll have something to fall back on, and (b) it will allow you to be a bolder investor, since you won't be worried about risking every penny you own.
Save between three and six months' worth of expenses. Call it your emergency fund, set aside for large, unexpected expenses (job loss, medical expenses, auto accident, etc.). This money should be in cash or some other form that's very conservative and immediately available.
Once you have an emergency fund established, you can start to save for your long-term goals, like buying a home, retirement, and college tuition.
If your employer offers a retirement plan, this is a great vehicle for saving, because it can save on your tax bill, and your employer may contribute money to match some of your own contributions, which amounts to "free" money for you.
If you don't have a retirement plan through your workplace, most employees are allowed to accumulate tax-deferred savings in a traditional IRA or a Roth IRA. If you are self-employed, you have options like a SEP-IRA or a "SIMPLE" IRA. Once you've determined the type of account(s) to set up, you can then choose specific investments to hold within them.
Get current on all your insurance policies. This includes auto, health, homeowner's/renter's, disability, and life insurance. With luck you'll never need insurance, but it's nice to have in the event of disaster.
2. Learn a little bit about stocks. This is what most people think of when they consider "investing." Put simply, a stock is a share in the ownership of a business, a publicly-held company. The stock itself is a claim on what the company owns — its assets and earnings.  When you buy stock in a company, you are making yourself part-owner. If the company does well, the value of the stock will probably go up, and the company may pay you a "dividend," a reward for your investment. If the company does poorly, however, the stock will probably lose value.
The value of stock comes from public perception of its worth. That means the stock price is driven by what people think it's worth, and the price at which a stock is purchased or sold is whatever the market will bear, even if the underlying value (as measured by certain fundamentals) might suggest otherwise.
A stock price goes up when more people want to buy that stock than sell it.  Stock prices go down when more people want to sell than buy. In order to sell stock, you have to find someone willing to buy at the listed price. In order to buy stock, you have to find someone selling their stock at a price you like.
The job of a stockbroker is to pair up buyers and sellers.
"Stocks" can mean a lot of different things. For example, penny stocks are stocks that trade at relatively low prices, sometimes just pennies.
Various stocks are bundled into what's called an index, like the Dow Jones Industrials, which is a list of 30 high-performing stocks. An index is a useful indicator of the performance of the whole market.
3. Familiarize yourself with bonds. Bonds are issuances of debt, similar to an IOU. When you buy a bond, you're essentially lending someone money.  The borrower ("issuer") agrees to pay back the money (the "principal") when the life ("term") of the loan has expired. The issuer also agrees to pay interest on the principal at a stated rate. The interest is the whole point of the investment. The term of the bond can range from months to years, at the end of which period the borrower pays back the principal in full.
Here's an example: You buy a five-year municipal bond for $10,000 with an interest rate of 2.35%. Thus, you lend the municipality $10,000. Each year the municipality pays you interest on your bond in the amount of of 2.35% of $10,000, or $235. After five years the municipality pays back your $10,000. So you've made back your principal plus a profit of $1175 in interest (5 x $235).
Generally the longer the term of the bond, the higher the interest rate. If you're lending your money for a year, you probably won't get a high interest rate, because one year is a relatively short period of risk. If you're going to lend your money and not expect it back for ten years, however, you will be compensated for the higher risk you're taking, and the interest rate will be higher. This illustrates an axiom in investing: The higher the risk, the higher the return.
4. Understand the commodities market. When you invest in something like a stock or a bond, you invest in the business represented by that security. The piece of paper you get is worthless, but what it promises is valuable. A commodity, on the other hand, is something of inherent value, something capable of satisfying a need or desire. Commodities include pork bellies (bacon), coffee beans, oil, natural gas, and potash, among many other items. The commodity itself is valuable, because people want and use it.
People often trade commodities by buying and selling "futures." A future is simply an agreement to buy or sell a commodity at a certain price sometime in the future.
Futures were originally used as a "hedging" technique by farmers. Here's a simple example of how it works: Farmer Joe grows avocados. The price of avocados, however, is typically volatile, meaning that it goes up and down a lot. At the beginning of the season, the wholesale price of avocados is $4 per bushel. If Farmer Joe has a bumper crop of avocados but the price of avocados drops to $2 per bushel in April at harvest, Farmer Joe may lose a lot of money.
Joe, in advance of harvest as insurance against such a loss, sells a futures contract to someone. The contract stipulates that the buyer of the contract agrees to buy all of Joe's avocados at $4 per bushel in April.
Now Joe has protection against a price drop. If the price of avocados goes up, he'll be fine because he can sell his avocados at the market price. If the price of avocados drops to $2, he can sell his avocados at $4 to the buyer of the contract and make more than other farmers who don't have a similar contract.
The buyer of a futures contract always hopes that the price of a commodity will go up beyond the futures price he paid. That way he can lock in a lower-than-market price. The seller hopes that the price of a commodity will go down. He can buy the commodity at low (market) prices and then sell it to the buyer at a higher-than-market price.
5. Know a bit about investing in property. Investing in real estate can be a risky but lucrative proposition. There are lots of ways you can invest in property. You can buy a house and become a landlord. You pocket the difference between what you pay on the mortgage and what the tenant pays you in rent. You can also flip homes. That means you buy a home in need of renovations, fix it up, and sell it as quickly as possible. Real estate can be a profitable vehicle for some, but it is not without substantial risk involving property maintenance and market value.
Other ways of gaining exposure to real estate include collateralized mortgage obligations (CMOs) and collateralized debt obligations (CDOs), which are mortgages that have been bundled into securitized instruments. These, however, are tools for sophisticated investors: their transparency and quality can vary greatly, as revealed during the 2008 downturn.
Some people think that home values are guaranteed to go up. History has shown otherwise: real estate values in most areas show very modest rates of return after accounting for costs such as maintenance, taxes and insurance. As with many investments, real estate values do invariably rise if given enough time. If your time horizon is short, however, property ownership is not a guaranteed money-maker.
Property acquisition and disposal can be a lengthy and unpredictable process and should be viewed as a long-term, higher-risk proposition. It is not the type of investment that is appropriate if your time horizon is short and is certainly not a guaranteed investment.
6. Learn about mutual funds and exchange-traded funds (ETFs). Mutual funds and ETFs are similar investment vehicles in that each is a collection of many stocks and/or bonds (hundreds or thousands in some cases). Holding an individual security is a concentrated way of investing – the potential for gain or loss is tied to a single company – whereas holding a fund is a way to spread the risk across many companies, sectors or regions. Doing so can dampen the upside potential but also serves to protect against the downside risk.
Commodities exposure is usually achieved by holding futures contracts or a fund of futures contracts. Real estate can be held directly (by owning a home or investment property) or in a real estate investment trust (REIT) or REIT fund, which holds interests in a number of residential or commercial properties.

Part 2 Mastering Investment Basics.
1. Buy undervalued assets ("buy low, sell high"). If you're talking about stocks and other assets, you want to buy when the price is low and sell when the price is high. If you buy 100 shares of stock on January 1st for $5 per share, and you sell those same shares on December 31st for $7.25, you just made $225. That may seem a paltry sum, but when you're talking about buying and selling hundreds or even thousands of shares, it can really add up.
How do you tell if a stock is undervalued? You need to look at a company closely — its earnings growth, profit margins, its P/E ratio, and its dividend yield — instead of looking at just one aspect and making a decision based on a single ratio or a momentary drop in the stock's price.
The price-to-earnings ratio is a common way of determining if a stock is undervalued. It simply divides a company's share price by its earnings. For example, if Company X is trading at $5 per share, with earnings of $1 per share, its price-to-earnings ratio is 5. That is to say, the company is trading at five times its earnings. The lower this figure, the more undervalued the company may be. Typical P/E ratios range between 15 and 20, although ratios outside that range are not uncommon. Use P/E ratios as only one of many indications of a stock's worth.
Always compare a company to its peers. For example, assume you want to buy Company X. You can look at Company X's projected earnings growth, profit margins, and price-to-earnings ratio. You would then compare these figures to those of Company X's closest competitors. If Company X has better profit margins, better projected earnings, and a lower price-to-earnings ratio, it may be a better buy.
Ask yourself some basic Question : s: What will the market be for this stock in the future? Will it look bleaker or better? What competitors does this company have, and what are their prospects? How will this company be able to earn money in the future? These should help you come to a better understanding of whether a company's stock is under- or over-valued.
2. Invest in companies that you understand. Perhaps you have some basic knowledge regarding some business or industry. Why not put that to use? Invest in companies or industries that you know, because you're more likely to understand revenue models and prospects for future success. Of course, never put all your eggs in one basket: investing in only one -- or a very few -- companies can be quite risky. However, wringing value out of a single industry (whose workings you understand) will increase your chances of being successful.
For example, you may hear plenty of positive news on a new technology stock. It is important to stay away until you understand the industry and how it works. The principle of investing in companies you understand was popularized by renowned investor Warren Buffett, who made billions of dollars sticking only with business models he understood and avoiding ones he did not.
3. Avoid buying on hope and selling on fear. It's very easy and too tempting to follow the crowd when investing. We often get caught up in what other people are doing and take it for granted that they know what they're talking about. Then we buy stocks just because other people buy them or sell them when other people do. Doing this is easy. Unfortunately, it's a good way to lose money. Invest in companies that you know and believe in — and tune out the hype — and you'll be fine.
When you buy a stock that everyone else has bought, you're buying something that's probably worth less than its price (which has probably risen in response to the recent demand). When the market corrects itself (drops), you could end up buying high and then selling low, just the opposite of what you want to do. Hoping that a stock will go up just because everyone else thinks it will is foolish.
When you sell a stock that everyone else is selling, you're selling something that may be worth more than its price (which likely has dropped because of all the selling). When the market corrects itself (rises), you've sold low and will have to buy high if you decide you want the stock back.
Fear of losses can prove to be a poor reason to dump a stock.
If you sell based on fear, you may protect yourself from further declines, but you may also miss out on a rebound. Just as you did not anticipate the decline, you will not be able to predict the rebound. Stocks have historically risen over long time frames, which is why holding on to them and not over-reacting to short-term swings is important.
4. Know the effect of interest rates on bonds. Bond prices and interest rates have an inverse relationship. When interest rates go up, bond prices go down. When interest rates go down, bond prices go up. Here's why:
Interest rates on bonds normally reflect the prevailing market interest rate. Say you buy a bond with an interest rate of 3%. If interest rates on other investments then go up to 4% and you're stuck with a bond paying 3%, not many people would be willing to buy your bond from you when they can buy another bond that pays them 4% interest. For this reason, you would have to lower the price of your bond in order to sell it. The opposite situation applies when bond market rates are falling.
5. Diversify. Diversifying your portfolio is one of the most important things that you can do, because it diminishes your risk. Think of it this way: If you were to invest $5 in each of 20 different companies, all of the companies would have to go out of business before you would lose all your money. If you invested the same $100 in just one company, only that company would have to fail for all your money to disappear. Thus, diversified investments "hedge" against each other and keep you from losing lots of money because of the poor performance of a few companies.
Diversify your portfolio not only with a good mix of stocks and bonds, but go further by buying shares in companies of different sizes in different industries and in different countries. Often when one class of investment performs poorly, another class performs nicely. It is very rare to see all asset classes declining at the same time.
Many believe a balanced or "moderate" portfolio is one made up of 60% stocks and 40% bonds. Thus, a more aggressive portfolio might have 80% stocks and 20% bonds, and a more conservative portfolio might have 70% bonds and 30% stocks. Some advisors will tell you that your portfolio's percentage of bonds should roughly match your age.
6. Invest for the long run.  Choosing good-quality investments can take time and effort. Not everyone can do the research and keep up with the dynamics of all the companies being considered. Many people instead employ a "buy and hold" approach of weathering the storms rather than attempting to predict and avoid market downturns. This approach works for most in the long term but requires patience and discipline. There are some, however, who choose to try their hand at being a day-trader, which involves holding stocks for a very short time (hours, even minutes). Doing so, however, does not often lead to success over the long term for the following reasons:
Brokerage fees add up. Every time you buy or sell a stock, a middleman known as a broker takes a cut for connecting you with another trader. These fees can really add up if you're making a lot of trades every day, cutting into your profit and magnifying your losses.
Many try to predict what the market will do and some will get lucky on occasion by making some good calls (and will claim it wasn't luck), but research shows that this tactic does not typically succeed over the long term.
The stock market rises over the long term. From 1871 to 2014, the S&P 500's compound annual growth rate was 9.77%, a rate of return many investors would find attractive. The challenge is to stay invested long-term while weathering the ups and downs in order to achieve this average: the standard deviation for this period was 19.60%, which means some years saw returns as high as 29.37% while other years experienced losses as large as 9.83%.  Set your sights on the long term, not the short. If you're worried about all the dips along the way, find a graphical representation of the stock market over the years and hang it somewhere you can see whenever the market is undergoing its inevitable–and temporary–declines.
7. Consider whether or not to short sell. This can be a "hedging" strategy, but it can also amplify your risk, so it's really suitable only for experienced investors. The basic concept is as follows: Instead of betting that the price of a security is going to increase, "shorting" is a bet that the price will drop. When you short a stock (or bond or currency), your broker actually lends you shares without your having to pay for them. Then you hope the stock's price goes down. If it does, you "cover," meaning you buy the actual shares at the current (lower) price and give them to the broker. The difference between the amount credited to you in the beginning and the amount you pay at the end is your profit.
Short selling can be dangerous, however, because it's not easy to predict a drop in price. If you use shorting for the purpose of speculation, be prepared to get burned sometimes. If the stock's price were to go up instead of down, you would be forced to buy the stock at a higher price than what was credited to you initially. If, on the other hand, you use shorting as a way to hedge your losses, it can actually be a good form of insurance.
This is an advanced investment strategy, and you should generally avoid it unless you are an experienced investor with extensive knowledge of markets. Remember that while a stock can only drop to zero, it can rise indefinitely, meaning that you could lose enormous sums of money through short-selling.

Part 3 Starting Out.
1. Choose where to open your account. There are different options available: you can go to a brokerage firm (sometimes also called a wirehouse or custodian) such as Fidelity, Charles Schwab or TD Ameritrade. You can open an account on the website of one of these institutions, or visit a local branch and choose to direct the investments on your own or pay to work with a staff advisor. You can also go directly to a fund company such as Vanguard, Fidelity, or T. Rowe Price and let them be your broker. They will offer you their own funds, of course, but many fund companies (such as the three just named) offer platforms on which you can buy the funds of other companies, too. See below for additional options in finding an advisor.
Always be mindful of fees and minimum-investment rules before opening an account. Brokers all charge fees per trade (ranging from $4.95 to $10 generally), and many require a minimum initial investment (ranging from $500 to much higher).
Online brokers with no minimum initial-investment requirement include Capital One Investing, TD Ameritrade, First Trade, TradeKing, and OptionsHouse.
If you want more help with your investing, there is a variety of ways to find financial advice: if you want someone who helps you in a non-sales environment, you can find an advisor in your area at one of the following sites: letsmakeaplan.org, www.napfa.org, and garrettplanningnetwork.com. You can also go to your local bank or financial institution. Many of these charge higher fees, however, and may require a large opening investment.
Some advisors (like Certified Financial Planners™) have the ability to give advice in a number of areas such as investments, taxes and retirement planning, while others can only act on a client's instructions but not give advice, It's also important to know that not all people who work at financial institutions are bound to the "fiduciary" duty of putting a client's interests first. Before starting to work with someone, ask about their training and expertise to make sure they are the right fit for you.
2. Invest in a Roth IRA as soon in your working career as possible. If you're earning taxable income and you're at least 18, you can establish a Roth IRA. This is a retirement account to which you can contribute up to an IRS-determined maximum each year (the latest limit is the lesser of $5,500 or the amount earned plus an additional $1,000 "catch up" contribution for those age 50 or older). This money gets invested and begins to grow. A Roth IRA can be a very effective way to save for retirement.
You don't get a tax deduction on the amount you contribute to a Roth, as you would if you contributed to a traditional IRA. However, any growth on top of the contribution is tax-free and can be withdrawn without penalty after you turn age 59½ (or earlier if you meet one of the exceptions to the age 59½ rule).
Investing as soon as possible in a Roth IRA is important. The earlier you begin investing, the more time your investment has to grow. If you invest just $20,000 in a Roth IRA before you're 30 years old and then stop adding any more money to it, by the time you're 72 you'll have a $1,280,000 investment (assuming a 10% rate of return). This example is merely illustrative. Don't stop investing at 30. Keep adding to your account. You will have a very comfortable retirement if you do.
How can a Roth IRA grow like this? By compound interest. The return on your investment, as well as reinvested interest, dividends and capital gains, are added to your original investment such that any given rate of return will produce a larger profit through accelerated growth. If you are earning an average compound annual rate of return of 7.2%, your money will double in ten years. (This is known as "the rule of 72.")
You can open a Roth IRA through most online brokers as well as through most banks. If you are using a self-directed online broker, you will simply select a Roth IRA as the type of account while you are registering.
3. Invest in your company's 401(k). A 401(k) is a retirement-savings vehicle into which an employee can direct portions of his or her paychecks and receive a tax deduction in the year of the contributions. Many employers will match a portion of these contributions, so the employee should contribute at least enough to trigger the employer match.
4. Consider investing mainly in stocks but also in bonds to diversify your portfolio. From 1925 to 2011, stocks outperformed bonds in every rolling 25-year period. While this may sound appealing from a return standpoint, it entails volatility, which can be worrisome. Add less-volatile bonds to your portfolio for the sake of stability and diversification. The older you get, the more appropriate it becomes to own bonds (a more conservative investment). Re-read the above discussion of diversification.
5. Start off investing a little money in mutual funds. An index fund is a mutual fund that invests in a specific list of companies of a particular size or economic sector. Such a fund performs similarly to its index, such as the S&P 500 index or the Barclays Aggregate Bond index.
Mutual funds come in different shapes and sizes. Some are actively managed, meaning there is a team of analysts and other experts employed by the fund company to research and understand a particular geographical region or economic sector. Because of this professional management, such funds generally cost more than index funds, which simply mimic an index and don't need much management. They can be bond-heavy, stock-heavy, or invest in stocks and bonds equally. They can buy and sell their securities actively, or they can be more passively managed (as in the case of index funds).
Mutual funds come with fees. There may be charges (or "loads") when you buy or sell shares of the fund. The fund's "expense ratio" is expressed as a percentage of total assets and pays for overhead and management expenses. Some funds charge a lower-percentage fee for larger investments. Expense ratios generally range from as low as 0.15% (or 15 basis points, abbreviated "BPS") for index funds to as high as 2% (200 BPS) for actively managed funds. There may also be a "12b-1" fee charged to offset a fund's marketing expenses.
The U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission states that no evidence exists that higher-fee mutual funds produce better returns than do lower-fee funds. In other words, deal with lower-fee funds.
Mutual funds can be purchased through nearly any brokerage service. Even better is to purchase directly from a mutual fund company. This avoids brokerage fees. Call or write the fund company or visit their website. Opening a fund account is simple and easy. See Invest in Mutual Funds.
6. Consider exchange-traded funds in addition to or instead of mutual funds. Exchange-traded funds (ETFs) are very similar to mutual funds in that they pool people's money and buy many investments. There are a few key differences.
ETFs can be traded on an exchange throughout the business day just like stocks, whereas mutual funds are bought and sold only at the end of each trading day.
ETFs are typically index funds and do not generate as much in the way of taxable capital gains to pass on to investors as compared with actively managed funds. ETFs and mutual funds are becoming less distinct from each other, and investors need not own both types of investment. If you like the idea of buying and selling fund shares during (rather than at the end of) the trading day, ETFs are a good choice for you.

Part 4 Making the Most of Your Money.
1. Consider using the services of a financial planner or advisor. Many planners and advisors require that their clients have an investment portfolio of at least a minimum value, sometimes $100,000 or more. This means it could be hard to find an advisor willing to work with you if your portfolio isn't well established. In that case, look for an advisor interested in helping smaller investors.
How do financial planners help? Planners are professionals whose job is to invest your money for you, ensure that your money is safe, and guide you in your financial decisions. They draw from a wealth of experience at allocating resources. Most importantly, they have a financial stake in your success: the more money you make under their tutelage, the more money they make.
2. Buck the herd instinct. The herd instinct, alluded to earlier, is the idea that just because a lot of other people are doing something, you should, too.  Many successful investors have made moves that the majority thought were unwise at the time.
That doesn't mean, however, that you should never seek investment advice from other people. Just be wise about choosing the people you listen to. Friends or family members with a successful background in investing can offer worthwhile advice, as can professional advisors who charge a flat fee (rather than a commission) for their help.
Invest in smart opportunities when other people are scared. In 2008 as the housing crisis hit, the stock market shed thousands of points in a matter of months. A smart investor who bought stocks as the market bottomed out enjoyed a strong return when stocks rebounded.
This reminds us to buy low and sell high. It takes courage to buy investments when they are becoming cheaper (in a falling market) and sell those investments when they are looking better and better (a rising market). It seems counter-intuitive, but it's how the world's most successful investors made their money.
3. Know the players in the game.  Which institutional investors think that your stock is going to drop in price and have therefore shorted it? What mutual fund managers have your stock in their fund, and what is their track record? While it helps to be independent as an investor, it's also helpful to know what respected professionals are doing.
There are websites which compile recent opinions on a stock from analysts and expert investors. For example, if you are considering a purchase of Tesla shares, you can search Tesla on Stockchase. It will give you all the recent expert opinions on the stock.
4. Re-examine your investment goals and strategies every so often. Your life and conditions in the market change all the time, so your investment strategy should change with them. Never be so committed to a stock or bond that you can't see it for what it's worth.
While money and prestige may be important, never lose track of the truly important, non-material things in life: your family, friends, health, and happiness.
For example, if you are very young and saving for retirement, it may be appropriate to have most of your portfolio invested in stocks or stock funds. This is because you would have a longer time horizon in which to recover from any big market crashes or declines, and you would be able to benefit from the long-term trend of markets moving higher.
If you are just about to retire, however, having much less of your portfolio in stocks, and a large portion in bonds and/or cash equivalents is wise. This is because you will need the money in the short-term, and as a result you do not want to risk losing the money in a stock market crash right before you need it.

Community Q&A
Question : I have low money, how I can get rich?
Answer : Expect it to take many years to get rich. Follow any or all of the steps outlined above.
Question : How do I find a broker to invest in the stock market?
Answer : There are several discount brokers online who charge a small fee for buying stock for you. There are also stockbrokers in most cities you can deal with in person. They charge a bit more, but they can offer you more personal service and help you choose stocks if you'd like.
Question : What if I have a stock in mind, but don't want a broker/brokerage firm? How do I actually purchase stock from that particular company, immediately?
Answer : Look online for the company's investor-relations department phone number. Call and ask if they offer direct stock purchases. If so, they will give you instructions for purchasing their stock. They may take a credit card, or you can write them a check.
Question : How do I start investing? Do I need an agent? Can Canadians invest in US Stocks?
Answer : Canadians -- and anyone else -- may invest in U.S. stocks. The typical way it's done is through a stockbroker. A good way to start investing is to consult with an experienced, fee-based financial advisor. A fee-based advisor does not make money by convincing you to make a particular investment.
Question : What is the difference between "ex-dividend date" and "record date"?
Answer : A "record date" is the date a dividend distribution is declared, the date at the close of which one must be the shareholder in order to receive the declared dividend. An "ex-dividend date" is typically two business days before the record date. When shares of a stock are sold near the record date of a dividend declaration, the ex-dividend date is the last day on which the seller is clearly entitled to the dividend payment.
Question : Is a financial planner really necesary?
Answer : Not if you can supply your own financial acumen and practical level-headedness. If you are not clueless about finances, or if you're personally acquainted with someone with considerable financial experience to share with you, there's no need to pay for advice. Having said that, however, the more money you want to place at risk, the more a fee-only advisor is worth hiring.
Question : How do I initiate an investment process after I open the account?
Answer : Your broker can explain the process to you. It's just a matter of telling the broker which investment(s) you want to buy. A full-service broker will help you make that decision if you'd like.
Question : I want to buy Exxon stocks right now online. What's the best way?
Answer : See Part 3 of Buy Stocks.
Question : If my company is closing, can I withdraw the 401k without any penalty?
Answer : Your 401k is probably "portable," meaning you can take it with you without penalty if you switch jobs. In your case, you shouldn't have any trouble removing the funds (assuming you plan to deposit them in another similar plan).
Question : Is it OK to connect my stock market account with my savings account?
Answer : Yes, that's a safe place to keep your money while you're not using it to buy stock.

Tips.
One of the most painless and efficient ways to invest is to dedicate a portion of each paycheck to regular contributions to an investment account. Doing so can provide some great advantages:
Dollar-cost averaging: by saving a steady amount every payday, you purchase more shares of an investment when the share price is lower and fewer shares when the price is higher. That keeps the average share price you pay relatively low.
A disciplined savings plan: having a portion withheld from your paycheck is a way of putting money away before you have a chance to spend it and can translate into a consistent habit of saving.
The "miracle" of compound interest: earning interest on previously earned interest is what Albert Einstein called "the eighth wonder of the world." Compounding is guaranteed to make your retirement years easier if you let it work its magic by leaving your money invested and untouched for as long as possible. Many years of compounding can bring astonishingly good results.

Warnings.

If you intend to hire a financial advisor, make sure s/he is a "fiduciary." That's a person who is legally bound to propose investments for you that will benefit you. An advisor who is not a fiduciary may propose investments that will mainly benefit the advisor (not you).
When looking for an advisor, choose one who charges you a flat fee for advice, not one who is paid a commission by the vendor of an investment product. A fee-based advisor will retain you as a happy client only if his/her advice works out well for you. A commission-based advisor's success is based on selling you a product, regardless of how well that product performs for you.
June 04, 2020